FTF after removing bolt

[Berserker]

Fired 50 rounds other day with my 30-06 116, I think it is an 2006, bought it used.. After around 20-25 I pulled the bolt out and ran a patch through. Next shot, the gun just clicked. Put the round back in after the next two, and it went off. Some shots later same thing happened again. After that I took the bolt out and put and back in twice, and fired.

I thought I did the same thing both times removing the bolt. Hard to trouble shoot, since the gun clicks. Before hunting I dried fired it. Hopefully just something that needed to be resets.

Ideas? Thanks.

[drybean]

If it is a accutrigger my be the trigger adjustment is to low

[Berserker]

Yes it is. I haven't touched the trigger I bought it used, but it still had the sticker on it. So I a thinking maybe a raffle or very little use.

I don't have a trigger scale. Been thinkng about one for long time. This may be an excuse. Is there a minimum amount of turns or poundage? Light loktite on some adjustment screw?

I probably fired it around 30-40 times last year. So somewhere around 75 shots since I owned factory ammo, Corlockts. But I do have handloads, I just haven't had a chance to test them. WLR primers.

[pepper savage 111]

Try disassembling and cleaning out the inside of the bolt. There might be some build up. Also check your firing pin protrution . I bought a used 110 30-06 and the inside of the bolt was gunked up and the protrution was set too low.

[Berserker]

Is there a length to measure?

[Berserker]

The pin is about flush with the end of the bolt, with the bolt removed. Looks the same as my 110 I bought new earlier this year, with 50 rounds through it.

Should the bolt be disassembled? Lubed?? It looked fine no gunk that I could see.

[Robinhood]

Im with drybean make sure you completely depress the Accurelease (safety blade) before your finger touches the trigger. If you do not then you will have a fig 5. This stops the firing pin from being released to strike the primer by restricting the sear travel.

http://hunting.about.com/library/graphics/savage_at_release.jpg

The small tool to the left in fig 3 adjusts the spring preload that makes the trigger have a lighter or heavier pull.

[Berserker]

I was happy with the trigger so I never adjusted it. But will have to look at it. I will be working up loads and get some more shooting in, but probably not until spring, unless I clear big path.

So it may be to light. Which would be a bummer, cause I like it. But I like reliable more.

[big honkin jeep]

Is the primer dented after the click?
Just figured that would be important to know for diagnostic purposes

[Berserker]

Very good question. I screwed up, didn't look. Racked another one, shot it t see if it would go. Put it back in without looking close. I don't think there was a dent , but I am also guessing a bit.

[WinnieTheBoom]

You may not need to adjust the trigger if you don't want to, you just have to be more cognizant that the blade is fully compressed before touching the trigger and that your pull is straight back. If you pull even the slightest bit to one side (I'm right handed, so whenever this happens it would always happen pulling towards the right) it will just click and you'll have to rack the bolt.

[Berserker]

You may not need to adjust the trigger if you don't want to, you just have to be more cognizant that the blade is fully compressed before touching the trigger and that your pull is straight back. If you pull even the slightest bit to one side (I'm right handed, so whenever this happens it would always happen pulling towards the right) it will just click and you'll have to rack the bolt.
But if I adjust the lbs on the trigger a little more, it will reduce the likelyhood?

I do try to pull squarely. Though I worry about with handguns, it doesn't seem to be as much of a factor with rifle.

I do like the having the first trigger, sorta helps with the getting ready to shot, pull that first.

I didn't quite get what the picture was indicating. Now do. Make sure the first trigger is contact the sear. Will pull apart and check.

[keeki]

Make sure the bas is tight

[olddav]

I didn't quite get what the picture was indicating. Now do. Make sure the first trigger is contact the sear. Will pull apart and check.

I don't think that's what you should take away from the pics. I believe it is showing you what happens if you trip the trigger before the center blade is fully depressed.

[WinnieTheBoom]

I don't think that's what you should take away from the pics. I believe it is showing you what happens if you trip the trigger before the center blade is fully depressed.

Yeah, that's exactly what it's showing. It's a very common thing with Craputriggers, I see it happen at least once every time someone has one at the range. Physically, there's nothing wrong with the trigger, it's just that it was designed to prevent accidental fires. Think about it like this, Savage saw what happened with Remington's X-Mark Pro triggers and wanted to avoid a cluster like that. Not much else to it.

[Berserker]

After market triggers to avoid this? Funny thing is I bought the gun cause I heard how great the trigger is. I bought this to deer and bear hunt with, the idea of it failing when I get a chance bothers me.

[Jamie]

It really isn't the triggers fault. We are just used to pressing slightly from the side instead of straight back and end up not completely depressing the safety when we trip the trigger.

There are a couple aftermarket triggers that are easy to install. I have had good luck with the Rifle Basix in several Striker conversions to rear grip.

[Berserker]

It really isn't the triggers fault. p.
Disagree. If the gun doesn't fire when the trigger is pulled backwards, something is wrong.

[olddav]

I won't get into the is/is not debate ;) but you can use a RifleBasix SAV-1 or a Tinimey trigger for hunting. You will be limited to around 2.5# pull weight though (you know for safety sake).

[foxx]

Right. The Accutrigger is designed to allow the rifle to fire the cartridge ONLY if the safety blade in the middle of the trigger is FULLY depressed BEFORE the regular portion of the trigger is touched.

One way to try and duplicate what you might have done is to do this:

1. Make absolutely certain the gun is unloaded
2. Point the muzzle at a safe backstop / target
3. Cock the rifle
4. depress the "regular" part of the trigger only, without touching/depressing the silver safety blade first. You will notice a slight "click" sound and a slight feel of the sear falling. Actually, all that is happening is the sear falls against the "stop" of the safety blade, the sear does not fall as it normally does when the blade is fully depressed before the regular part of the trigger is tripped. Then, the trigger feels like it is jammed somehow. The only way to "fix it" is to recock the rifle by lifting the bolt again.
5. Next, try "Firing" it by FIRST depressing the safety blade all the way back and then continue to press the regular trigger. The sear should fall normally.

Some people really like this feature, some hate it. Typically, fat fingered shooters don't like it because it can be easily tripped without depressing the safety blade all the way first. Or, shooters who have a bad shooting habit of pressing the trigger from the side instead of pressing it straight back from the front of the trigger.