PDA

View Full Version : FTF after removing bolt



Pages : 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7

Robinhood
11-14-2016, 09:06 PM
If Berserker squeezes the trigger on an empty chamber with the action cocked and it goes "click" from the firing pin ramming home we can move to a prioritized list of things to investigate.

1 Ammo fires from different gun with no issues (optional)
2 Trigger is sitting on sear when cocked (every time)******
3 Head space (chamber) and (case) If/when reloading it is easy to set up your dies incorrectly over sizing the brass.
4 Firing pin protrusion (probably OK. Should have approximately .040 +or -.005)
5 Back to the firing pin make sure there is no binding in the cocking piece, pin and sleeve and the sleeve sits in the grooves on the nut when pushed to the bottom with the cocking pin installed. Make sure the firing pin assembly slides easily/freely in the bolt body before you replace the BAS

Berserker
11-15-2016, 09:02 AM
2 shells were store bought one hand load, 2 different brands of primers. I don't think it is the ammo.

If it was protrusion, would it do it more often?

Robinhood
11-16-2016, 01:20 AM
2 shells were store bought one hand load, 2 different brands of primers. I don't think it is the ammo.

If it was protrusion, would it do it more often?

Solving problems requires a process of elimination. The order in which we test can be critical. Eliminating only the issues that are most common first makes the most sense.

We bypassed number one, that is no problem. I have not read all of your post and you may have tried that already. We can come back to that later if you have not.

Since the primer is getting dented "every time" number two can be eliminated.

Looks like we are at number three. Have you tried the no go gauge? Have you done anything with the case like add tape to the base and tried to close the bolt on it? What we are looking for is if there is enough room for the case to move forward as the primer strikes.

Once we have determined the answer to number three we can move forward to Number Four: firing pin protrusion.

Berserker
11-16-2016, 07:08 AM
I don't have a no gauge. Tape sounds easy.

Robinhood
11-16-2016, 07:41 AM
Cellophane tape is what you want to use. (Scotch tape) be gentle and trim it close.

Bunky-Shooter
11-16-2016, 10:10 AM
Robin hood is leading you in the right direction..Been reading and following the info. being talked about.. If the rifle is firing the protrusion on the firing pin i probably correct. To check your firing pin protrusion decock your firing pin off of the cocking ramp. It should measure from .035 to.05 for it to fire. Factory set is .05 to.062. If this is correct I would take the bolt apart give it a thorough cleaning. Had this problem before and it was trash in the bolt body.. The trigger is a dead horse everyone is beating. Accu-triggers work as they are designed too.

Berserker
11-16-2016, 11:33 AM
I'll probably order gauges, I like gadget. I have the one for checking case head, but never use it.

Never had a bolt apart except for a nagant, which is a cheap gun I wasn't worried about.

Guess I need to learn. Sure lots of stuff on the internet. I don't have mic at camp.

Robinhood
11-16-2016, 02:44 PM
If you are going to order gauges it will not hurt to jump to number 4. However, it is very easy to do number 3 with scotch tape. So easy my 11 y o grandaughter can do it... and has.

Berserker
11-16-2016, 07:27 PM
I am at deer camp.

Berserker
11-16-2016, 07:37 PM
Trimmed scotch rape with dull scisors. Bolt closed and no mark on tape from pin, that I could see.

I don't have magnifying glass here should get one.

Robinhood
11-17-2016, 01:20 AM
If bolt closed add another piece of tape. Coke or bear cans can be cut into shims also. it is a pain with the ejector in but can be done. Add until the bolt will not close. Don't try to fire it. Closing the bolt is the idea. We can tell how much the head space is off... or at least have some idea.

Lets say you put four layers of tape before it will not close, You would have too much head space clearance. the tape is not ideal but again offers us some idication of improper clearances. Too much clearance and the cartridge movement buffers the firing pin strike.

Berserker
11-17-2016, 07:22 AM
How much is to much? At some point even a gun with correct headspace won't close.

Robinhood
11-17-2016, 08:35 AM
That would have been the case on the first layer more than likely. The second layer for sure. After that you are in too much headspace land.....if your brass is the correct size. We don't know the exact tape you are using so the thickness is an unknown. If it is .003 two pieces would more than likely put you way out on the end of the tolerance. At that point I would say you need a Set of gauges and it would be time to reset the headspace.

If you are ripping the tape off on closing you need to get a no go gauge.

Bunky-Shooter
11-17-2016, 09:02 AM
Berserker sounds like you may have gotten confused on the purpose of the tape. Headspace for a cartridge is the minimum dimension of the chamber plus .006. If your rifle’s chamber is not cut within this range, some extreme situations can be dangerous. You should go to this site they will explain the purpose of headspace. I first started building my own rifles i had a
hard time understanding how this all works. Hope this helps you out.. http://www.rifleshootermag.com/gunsmithing/gunsmithing_headspace_0612/

Berserker
11-18-2016, 12:16 AM
From what I read if the head space is to much, I will need a go gauge and barrell wrench. Snug until touches the gauge and then lock the nut down. Sounds easy, but I am sure I will make it harder then it needs to be.

I am not happy with a few things about this gun, but being able to do barrel work yourself appeals to me. It is why I ride Harleys.

Robinhood
11-18-2016, 12:26 AM
We are trying to determine if you need a go gauge. How is the tape thing going? have you added another piece yet.

Berserker
11-18-2016, 02:05 AM
No I shot a deer with a different gun.

How many pieces if tape is to many? We should figure that out before starting.

Robinhood
11-18-2016, 08:11 AM
Trying to help you berserker. we are on a process of elimination that 4 pages of posts could not get done. We don't need four more pages, you are almost there. As you work your way through the process your Savagesmith troubleshooting skills may improve.

Having a set of go no go gauges would be ideal but we don't have that. If there is more than .004-.006 we are out of tolerance. Stack tape and let us know how many pieces until the bolt will not close.

If you just cant go on without a number off pieces I think we can stop at 5.

Bunky-Shooter
11-18-2016, 09:32 AM
Try using the side wall cut from a beer can or coke can for shims. (One) piece you should be able to close your bolt (two) pieces it should not close. This is the process i have used to set head space on my rifles and they are all less than 1" group shooters.. All you need is a cheap pair of tin snips.. Hope this works for you...

Robinhood
11-18-2016, 12:37 PM
Try using the side wall cut from a beer can or coke can for shims. (One) piece you should be able to close your bolt (two) pieces it should not close. This is the process i have used to set head space on my rifles and they are all less than 1" group shooters.. All you need is a cheap pair of tin snips.. Hope this works for you...

Mentioned in post 21. Scissors will work on aluminum cans. Again berserker. don't get sidetracked. Establish headspace regardless of the method.