1.5 Mile ELR Rig: 338 Edge

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So my Savage addiction started with a basic Savage Axis in 308. I'd always wanted to try my hand at long range shooting. Even growing up, I was always fascinated with snipers. Finally, a year or two ago, Dad and I decided, why not? We did some research, and the Axis was getting good reviews, so we figured we'd give it a try. He bought the rifle as a Christmas present, I topped it with an SWFA scope and shot it out to 1k yards without issue. The bug bit. HARD.

Since then, I've built a 6.5 Creemoor on an Axis donor, to get me out a bit further, because soon, the 308 wasn't enough. Now, I'm, once again, in the process of building something to get me a bit further. The creed is a great shooting gun, and I love shooting it. Last year, however, I went to an Extreme Long Range Shoot with some guys and decided, one day, I was gonna be able to do that. From that point, I started doing a lot of research on ELR shooting. The plan is to be able to shoot out to at least a mile and a half one day. Having good luck with Savage thus far, I figure, why screw with a good thing?

I settled on a 338 Edge, because I could build it on a regular magnum action, unlike a Lapua, which would need a bigger action. I'd gotten my Creedmoor barrel from Jim at Apache Gun Works, and the barrel, the experience, everything, has been fantastic. Jim is a great guy that goes above and beyond for his customers and his workmanship is outstanding. So naturally, that's where I turned for this barrel. He'd told me a while back he was in the process of securing a deal on some nicer high end, hand lapped blanks. So I waited patiently until that was worked out. The new barrel was ordered, and built on one of new X-Caliber blanks.

I picked up a Savage 111 rifle chambered in 270 from the classifieds here, dismantled it, swapped the bolt head to a magnum bolt head, and had my donor action. I picked up a trued barrel nut and precision ground recoil lug from Northland Shooter Supply. Headspace was set super snug with a 300RUM go gauge, and a piece of scotch tape on the rear of it.

After owning two Boyds Tacticools for the Axis pair, I like the stock design, and I'm used to it. I bedded both of them, on my own, and they work well. The creed is definitely the better looking of the two, but hey, you learn something each time. I figured I'd try to document this build with pictures and a bit of a write up, since I never did it on the other two. So here goes nothing.

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So the first thing I do is fill some of the cut out channel in the forearm of the stock. My reason for this is to be able to bed the first couple-few inches of the barrel. After doing a lot of research, it seems there are some that prefer this method, and some that stock at the recoil lug. I decided on this method for the creedmoor, because it was a solid 1" bull barrel and 26" long. The Edge actually has a slight contour (I took it down to .900" at the muzzle), but it's 30" long. This method has worked well in the creed, so I decided to do the same with this one.

I wanted to keep the material a close as possible, so I used a wooden down and cut a few plugs that dropped over in the channel. I then cut a few small pieces to fill in the gaps, and put everything in place with a liberal helping of wood glue. After this set up for 48 hours, I took the dremel to it and smoothed it down to the same contour. This should give me a good solid base to bed the barrel. While I was at it, I ground a bit of stock material away everywhere the action would hit, so the bedding would have some room. I ground the recoil lug slot out some as well. Using a smaller bit, I made a multitude of holes in the stock to give the bedding as much mechanical lock as possible. This action screw holes have been opened up as well, but will likely have to go a hair bigger. The material for my pillars should be here in a day or two, so I'll see then how much bigger I need to go.

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I use modeling clay I picked up at Michaels to block out the stock and action to keep bedding compound from going where I didn't want it to go. I rolled up some paper, and cut it to the length of the inside of the action, just to take up most of the space. Saves on modeling clay. I blocked the bottom of the stock off around the holes, and just used the back end of a Sharpie to stick in the hole and role it around to give a nice hole. Pressing down while doing this to keep the clay on the outside of the holes, but not actually over in the hole. This keeps the bedding compound from dripping out and getting on the outside of the stock.

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The top edges of the stock are taped with red electrical tape, right on the edge. That way when the tape is pulled, there should be a perfect line down the edge. I then put a couple layers of masking tape off of the electrical tape to cover everything else. I finish it off with one long 'wing' of tape on each side that can be pulled right after dropping the action in, to get rid of most of the mess right off the bat.

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Here you see tear drops made of clay with a straw on top that are placed into the opening for the action holes from the bottom. It keeps bedding compound from dripping out until they are pushed out by the pillars from above, and straws are a guide so I can hit the hole without any guesswork.


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The pillars are made of stainless. 1/4" ID 1/2" OD. I put a couple grooves in them on a buddies lathe, but decided that wasn't enough after I got home, so I put some short, deeper grooves in them with my dremel and a cutoff wheel.


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The recoil lug is taped on the sides, bottom, and front. Nothing on the back except release agent. I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish. The barrel nut also has one piece of electrical tape around it where the grooves are to keep anything from locking in there. The entire action, barrel, and action bolts are wiped down with Kiwi shoe polish. I also wrapped each action bolt with a layer of masking tape to center them in the pillars, keep them snug inside them, and also cut down on any bedding compound that could seep in and get into the threads (they have release agent on them anyway, but every little bit helps).



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Here you see the 'wings' of tape on each side, ready to pull as soon as the barreled action is dropped into the mess.


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I used JB Weld for my first two bedding jobs and haven't had any issues, so I did the same for this one. I used 3 packages. I put all 3 black 'steel' tubes into a cup first, then add the 3 gray 'hardener' tubes and start mixing. Mix it til it's one color, and then let it sit to release air that's trapped in it. It will come to the top. I used a paperclip to pop bubbles a couple times. Once I noticed it start to thicken, I poured it into the channel towards the front, letting it run over into the recoil lug hole a little at a time. Letting in slowly run in keeps from trapping any air in there. I then poured more right on top of the clay, between the action holes, and let it run both directions, pulling it up onto the sides where needed, and pressing it down into the holes I drilled all throughout the woodwork to help with mechanical lock. Then I let this sit for another 5 mins or so, again, to release air bubbles. At this point, depending on how much it's already thickened, I dropped the barreled action over into the channel, slowly pushing the straws down with the pillars until they fall out the bottom. Slowly letting the bedding compound squeeze out the sides, I dropped it all the way in. Keeping pressure on the top of the action, I wiped away the excess with wooden popsicle sticks, and q-tips soaked in WD-40. Once I was satisfied with it being clean enough, I wrapped it with electrical tape in it's final resting place. Before I started all of this, I leveled the stock, both directions. So now, when wrapping the tape, I placed the level on the scope base, and made sure it was level once locked down. And now, I wait... And pray... that I didn't lock the action in the stock. :)



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This is right after pulling it. Clay still everywhere. Literally smacked the barrel with a rubber mallet, popped it out, and snapped the pics. After that is after I picked out all the clay, and touched the edges up with the dremel, cut the rear pillar, etc. Got a few air bubbles that I didn't really have in the past 2, I think it may be because I let it sit after mixing it too long. Should have slowly poured it into the stock right after mixing and let it sit there most of the time. Oh well. Not that many, and they're pretty tiny. Don't think they're gonna cause any issues. All in all, I think it'll do just fine. We'll see I guess. Decided to go ahead and bed the first couple inches of barrel. I can alway grind it back down later if it causes an issue.

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And here she is. Wearing a 16x42 SWFA for now. We'll see how that goes for starters. Can't wait to get her shooting. Hope to take her out tomorrow and break her in and get a rough zero. Maybe even a 300yd ladder test. We'll see how it goes.

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[yobuck]

A little heads up for you, IT AINT ENOUGH GUN for those distances.
And plan on spending more on the optics to allow for seeing hits
at those distances than you will be spending on the gun.

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It should be plenty of gun to get me out past 2k yards. We'll see how it goes. One day I'll own something in the 375CT realm, but that's not any time soon.

[LoneWolf]

I've seen video of the 338Edge reaching out over 2700 yards. It may not be precision accuracy, but it will reach. no different than guys shooting a creedmoor, 260rem, or 300WM to 1760. even 50 BMG isn't exactly precise at 1.5miles. Guys who've made those shots in Combat didn't get 1st round hits. It's a perfect cartridge to get into the ELR game in my opinion.

[upSLIDEdown]

Exactly. With Berger 300s and Hornady 285s, I can't wait to see what she'll do. Time will tell.

[LongRange]

i cant get the video to post and you guys have probably seen it anyway but theres a couple guys shooting 260 rems to 1950yds on youtube so the Edge should have no prob to 2640yds ive shot to 1650 with my 300wm with the factory barrel and break...ill try to get out this 4 day weekend and get some 1760+ footage with my 300. nice build upSLIDEdown.

there it is...im technically challenged..

http://youtu.be/GmQQKP4ZAkc


(http://youtu.be/GmQQKP4ZAkc)

[LoneWolf]

video is not displaying.

[LongRange]

video fixed

[upSLIDEdown]

i cant get the video to post and you guys have probably seen it anyway but theres a couple guys shooting 260 rems to 1950yds on youtube so the Edge should have no prob to 2640yds ive shot to 1650 with my 300wm with the factory barrel and break...ill try to get out this 4 day weekend and get some 1760+ footage with my 300. nice build upSLIDEdown.

there it is...im technically challenged..

http://youtu.be/GmQQKP4ZAkc


(http://youtu.be/GmQQKP4ZAkc)

Hah, yeah, I'd seen it, but that doesn't mean I didn't watch it again. :cool:

[pinsnscrews]

Nice build. Good luck with it and I hope it fits your needs for now.

I will be interested to see what your load work ups look like as well.

[FEENIX]

Awesome project; good luck and keep us posted.

Here's a nice attempt on 3280 yards with .338 LM ...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0w2p6g3Kf5w

[scooterf79]

Great thread so far, cant wait to see how it turns out!
Scooter

[upSLIDEdown]

Awesome project; good luck and keep us posted.

Here's a nice attempt on 3280 yards with .338 LM ...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0w2p6g3Kf5w

Hah, I actually tried to contact that guy about his scope base setup not long ago. Too funny.


Great thread so far, cant wait to see how it turns out!
Scooter

Thanks, me I'm pretty stoked.

[scooterf79]

I would imagine! Maybe one day I'll get the opportunity to stretch my rifles out some, nothing in the ELR realm but.....
Scooter

[FEENIX]

Just in case you're looking for or need 150 MOA rail >>> http://www.arcanglesolutions.com/Home_Page.php

(http://www.arcanglesolutions.com/ARC-RIZER_2.html)