And I thought I was the only one that did not understand ??? Other than a smooth operating bolt, not sure I know what the rest is about.
Thanks hershey
i understand that some of this is about ease of movement and stuff like that, but what am i missing in this statement: if a bolt locks down and makes good contact w/ the lugs, it has done its job.
i am reading all the discussion on timed and trued and don't understand what all is important. if i lap in my lugs well so it locks down tight what else needs to happen?. if i don't mind the not perfectly smooth bolt lift and other little things like that, am i really missing out on anything?
God still loves you, yep even on them days....
And I thought I was the only one that did not understand ??? Other than a smooth operating bolt, not sure I know what the rest is about.
Thanks hershey
There is a thread on it somewhere if you do a search. I rec. it, I have 2 actions done w/ it and my 3rd is at SSS's shop now.
If you look in the FAQs section you will find the answer to your question.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...ic,4899.0.html
test
ok, thanks for the link, i thought i'd been through all them thingies at one point in time or another, goes to show, i should look at them more often.Originally Posted by hershey
but what i am searching for is the answer to the question above. for me, unless someone can convince me there is an accuracy/performance gain, i can live w/ what i got.
God still loves you, yep even on them days....
Lets say you have even contact on your locking lugs because youve taken the time to lap them in. Whats to say that the face of the bolt head is strait with the bore?
The proper way to lap in the locking lugs is to first true the bolt face and the rear of the locking lugs so they are square or concentric first. After that the action needs to be straitened (all actions are crooked). If the actions crooked/twisted/bent but the locking lugs are strait you still are pushing more against one recoil lug than the other knocking the face of the bolt off.
Thats where the Savages floating bolt head comes in!
Hershey
Not sure it is anyones job to convince you about timing or blueprinting an action. It just depends on what you are after for accuracy.
I look at it like an insurance policy. You get what you pay for. You pay a little or a lot more money for the just in case factor.
I have trued Remington's and seen a drastic change in the way my bolts locked up. Yes it made a difference in the way they shot as well. Accuracy comes from precision work from the back of the bolt to the crown of the barrel. Ultimate accuracy comes from exact tolerances in mating surfaces together with alignment of all of those parts. In other words the X-factor/ unknown factor has been removed.
Will I do it or have it done again? NO, because the actions are all done or so close to perfect mating surface the X-factor is gone.
Personally, the extremely heavy hitting cartridges I am shooting demand full locking bolt engagement to insure my safety.
Some things to ponder
Neal
No; its not!Originally Posted by savageboy
When the bolt heads crooked, the bolt face is crooked, the brass comes out of the chamber crooked. See what that does to your accuracy the next time you reload it.
+ 1 its like a long highway that zig zags. its not all in line. 8) ddOriginally Posted by outlawkyote
So what does the floating bolt face do for us?
Gives us "out of the box accuracy" without custom gunsmithing.Originally Posted by savageboy
Custom gunsmithing gives us better accuracy.
follows and stays square with the base of the cartridge.Originally Posted by savageboy
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
lol.. not hardlyOriginally Posted by Blue Avenger
Re: explain timed and trued to me
« Reply #14 on: Today at 10:07:11 PM » Quote
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Quote from: Blue Avenger on Today at 10:04:06 PM
Quote from: savageboy on Today at 09:53:15 PM
So what does the floating bolt face do for us?
follows and stays square with the base of the cartridge.
lol.. not hardly
OK so tell us then- I must not be the only one who is mis informed
The only thing the floating bolt head does is tips, twists slightly under pressure so that both locking lugs take equal pressure. If these parts are not squared to each other your brass will stretch more on the side that is not equal. Next time you load your brass into that chamber (unless youve indexed your brass so it goes back into the chamber the same way) it will once again stretch to the uneven side. After only a few firings, you need to start bumping your brass back because it is getting too long an uneven.
I have experienced this when comparing trued actions compared to non-trued actions, One piece of brass fits tighter than the last piece? This has caused inconsistand accuracy in those rifles also.
You cant tell me that 50-60 thousand pounds of pressure arent going to push that brass back into the face of the bolt face (thats crooked because the bolt head tipped into the longer side) and not stretch into the side that is crooked.
Lapping your bolt only releives tooling marks and uneven spots (per side) and not makes them equal to each other.
I know I am sold on T&T for Savage actions.
so if i am doing load work and using the same 20 pieces of brass and have half a dozen firings on them and i am not trimming or having to do anything but neck size, then i probably got everything lined up pretty straight and i would not gain allot in accuracy, just in ease of use and the tolerances would be finer. if i am having brass issues, it could very well be the action needs trued?
God still loves you, yep even on them days....
Prolly. Hey, Im not the kinda guy to tell anyone they need to do anything. Until youve had Fred true one of your actions, you prolly just wouldnt understand.Originally Posted by hershey
That single shot action you sold me has had Freds work done to it already, You should feel the difference that made. I am still building on it though and havent shot it yet. Setting a Ken Ferrel base on the top , everything lined up perfect and I prolly wont need to bed the base to match it to the action.
Try one once and you'll understand. Freds rates are very reasonable and there is no excuse not to have one done.
[/quote]
Try one once and you'll understand. Freds rates are very reasonable and there is no excuse not to have one done.
[/quote]
actually, in my opinion, if i an gonna start w/ a target action and then send it out, it is getting close enough to custom action prices that it makes me think that might be the smarter choice. do not get me wrong i am not claiming that it is not a good thing to do, i want to know what i am giving up in accuracy when sitting next to a guy that has had it all done, or has a custom action. from what i can gather from this post is if my brass is coming out of the gun in good shape, i am not giving up much at all, probably in truth, nothing other that his gun is a little bit user freindly because it is easier to cycle the bolt etc.
i am the type of guy that if i sent my first one out and liked it, i'd have to send them all out, but then i could of just bought a custom gun and still have a bunch of very fine shootin savage rifles.
God still loves you, yep even on them days....
New member, first post. This thread is very interesting--I own 4 savages and am contemplating a couple or 3 more and this barrel swapping is looking better all the time. These questions come to my feeble old mind--since I'm considering a target action to build on--is the target action any more T & T than any other savage action? Or, would a person be any better off ($$$) just buying a Stevens and get a T & T job to start with? You would lose the SS, solid bottem and fancy trigger and port systems--how about the lug? Is it suppose to be any better than 'stock'? For my purposes, I'm not planning any super huge cartridges, mostly just varmint class stuff.
Thanks, Steve
actions and bolts are all the same for material quality. only changes would be ports and you can add one if you want. the solid bottom can be filled with a single shot follower if you want to buy a cheaper action. triggers are different between the std. and target actions. many change the trigger also. Lug is a separate replacement part. always a good idea to change the warped stamped stock part if you have the option.Originally Posted by durango
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Which custom action is that getting close to? I want one!Originally Posted by hershey
About the floating bolt head. Can it really move that much? I mean, it seems like there's very little clearance for the firing pin to go through the bolt pin and bolt head. Seems like it couldn't move much without binding the firing pin.
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