No copper
Nickel anti seize
What is the general concusses on lub when putting a SS barrel into a steel receiver ? I was thinking about picking up a small tube of either "Kopper Koat", or one with "moly" in the compound./
No copper
Nickel anti seize
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
That would work. I use Permatex Antisieze building bicycle wheels too. Stainless spokes and alloy nipples do not seize after 10 years in place.
OK, I'll check who has a small tube of Permatex, after all, " a little dab will do you"
A little dab of Anti-Seize on the ear piece of the telephone receiver when the boss picks it up? Priceless!! That crap gets on EVERYTHING!! A little dab will do ya.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
I did a search and Permatex makes a nickel lub.
https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...ize-lubricant/
Love the meme Robinhood!!!
All I've ever done is to heat and coat with FL, wipe excess off as directed. Never had any seizing issues.
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I see a few of you'll are in the category described by Robin Williams in the movie "Good Morning Vietnam"
Nickel anti seize of any type.
the copper stuff should be outlawed. It may have a use but I never found it.
I don't know why anybody would put anti seize on barrel threads.......it's not needed and it's messy. I've never seen a barrel threads seize. A drop of oil won't hurt.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I don't like the grind of metal on metal. Call it a mechanic thing.
Nickel Anti seize is what is recommended for stainless and you are integrating stainless and steel, possible galling and or interactions.
Certainly if someone does not want to its fine, my NSS Action Wrench also has toque spec and that is based on lubed.
I am not good around paint or glue but I don't have a problem with anti seize.
Metals with galling tendencies are normally identified with 300 series stainless, aluminum and titanium. none of my barrels are either of those materials so galling is not a concern for me. a drop of 3in1 is all I use.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Well the nickel anti seize is what is recommended for Savage
I build a lot of AR's too and those hard core AR guys are ready to fight about mil spec. this and mil spec that. Only thing you can use on that barrel nut is this special moly grease.
I am a why not guy and use anti seize on the Savage and moly grease on the AR. Oil or grease or anti seize or nothing would probably work in either case.
But really why not. It sure can't hurt to follow the instructions
Yep
So...who's the big authority that's recommending nickle anti-seize for Savage rifle barrels? Surely it's not Savage.....surely it's not SAAMI....surely it's not AGI....and surely it's not some accomplished benchrest shooter like Tony Boyer or Speedy Gonzales who routinely change barrels multiple times in one match.
This recommendation had to come from a pipe fitter, not a gunsmith......but they are your guns, do whatever makes you feel safe.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
...... Did you just call me Shirley....
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
Well I certainly am not Shirley though I worked with a guy by that name, he went verbally postal on the Forman one day (he had done ti with me when no one was around) , sort of the guy named Sue thing, what he didn't know was the Forman's half brother was standing behind him with a 4 x 4. Said half brother was also the Boxing Champion of the S.W. Pacific in WWII. Not a big guy, very pleasant person, I would not have wanted to mess with him. I got to watch him get fired, something to be said for standing your ground but not complaining and let them hang themselves.
That said as I have stated on maybe 8 occasions, NSS with their action wrench gives both torque specs and the use of anti seize.
As those two go together, I think its a credible source and solid advice form my experience with machinery (not sure how far back you want to go, my dad was a mechanic so I grew up around it)
My personal take is it stops metal to metal grinding, its required to meet the torque spec as without it you have to guess what dry is translated to.
Me, I have no issue with someone who wants to use coconut oil, devcon, pear juice etc. I found NSS recommendation matches my experience and am using it.
So, if someone asks, that is what I reply with citing the source and recommending the action wrench they supply (its got all the right stuff and it even has toque specs for the main clamp bolts as well as the action fastener.
At the very least its a good starting point for someone who does not know this stuff and at worst its a good finishing point as well and I continue to go with it.
NSS doesn't actually build guns,...... take that for what it's worth.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Theoretically you could elongate the chamber by torquing a lubricated barrel/action joint. I wonder if that would cause a situation not fixed by primary extraction.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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