good info! i have both the aluminum and copper and just switched over to the copper because i like the color. when i tear it down and change the barrel out on it i will go back to the aluminum. at lease i can use the copper on spark plugs!
Bruce
Read bullets below if you just want the info...
All,
When researching Anti-Seize for barrel installation I came across good info and figured I would pass it along so someone else doesn't have to do the same. This was important for me because my install involved a stainless steel barrel and barrel nut on my 110 action. The precision barrel nut instructions from Northland Shooters Supply specifically stated to coat all threads with anti-seize. In all the excitement of my first savage build, I did not apply anti-seize. However, five minutes after the rifle was assembled I realized I had forgotten sumpin... Anywho, I did my research, ordered the $5 Nickel anti-seize, found out it wouldn't arrive until 9 Feb, found aluminum anti-seize at autozone, called the Permatex company for permapermission to use on stainless steel since this particular product wasn't listed on their website, and then came home to find the nickel anti-seize in my mail. Lol so now I figured I would document what I learned and let the brotherhood know for future first-time barrel installers . My references are Permatex.com, Depacsproducts.net and Nothland Shooters Supply.
- Aluminum/Copper Base and Plain Copper Base:
Anything with copper base is a no-no for stainless. Many people know this and therefor steer very clear of it. I recently found this out with research and that the aluminum/copper base is just as bad in the end game. The copper in aluminum/copper or plain copper base causes a crystalline corrosion reaction with the stainless steel. This will eventually cause the stainless to fracture and brake or crack. Thats why anything with copper base is forbidden in nuclear facilities...
- Aluminum Base:
Aluminum base anti-seize is safe for stainless steel as long as you stay within the temp range of the lubricant. I confirmed this with Permatex technical specialist over the phone when I came across the Aluminum Base Anti-Seize at AutoZone and couldn't find the product on their website. The only drawback to aluminum base anti-seize is that it reacts with carbon steel in a way that the lubricant loses its protective characteristics which then leads to corrosion of the unprotected steel.
- Nickel Base:
Nickle base anti-seize is also safe for use with stainless steel. It is probably the most commonly used anti-seize for stainless steel in industry and has the highest temperature operating range. The Permatex technical specialist said most people use it but they don't have to since aluminum may also be used for this application. The drawback to nickel base anti-seize is that it is a known carcinogen. It can be dangerous in environments where it comes in contact with bare skin...
The three types of anti-seize are shown below (AGS packet has copper base):
hope this helps somebody some day... Shoot on!
Russ
Last edited by Russmerle; 02-04-2016 at 09:47 PM.
good info! i have both the aluminum and copper and just switched over to the copper because i like the color. when i tear it down and change the barrel out on it i will go back to the aluminum. at lease i can use the copper on spark plugs!
Bruce
Holy Crap!!
I just use a little gun grease. In 25 years of switch barrels I have yet to gall a thread. YMMV.
Every time I have gotten a new rifle or a barrel swapped out it came back with copper anti seize. Seems like rifle smiths don't know it's bad for stainless.
Good info. Use a lot of copper base on bolts ect... Especially rusted ones.
I'm down with the light coat of grease on barrel threads myself.
I was going to use anti seize until I watched the video from McGowen on installing a barrel. The old guy used Rig. Been using it here for a long time so I'm going to use it on my barrel install.
Has anyone used grease on stainless steel to stainless steel connections or at least not used ant-seize? Thanks for the replies; I like hearing from those that have years of practical experience. Practical experience is priceless. I didn't see any gunsmith videos other than Larry Potterfield from Midway and he used the anti-seize... I kind of wish I had because the grease sounds completely sane. At least I know I didn't do any damage to my Shilen by installing it with the oil... She broke free nice and easy too. The action wrench is a must have for the homebody gunsmith.
I was watching a video and saw a guy using grease as well. It looked like this stuff as it had the copper tone http://www.midwayusa.com/product/924...icant-1-oz-jar
The Pro-Shot Pro-Gold Grease doesn't list copper, aluminum or nickel on it's MSDS. It lists petroleum distillates with a 500 degree temp operating range so I'm assuming it doesn't have any of the metallic ingredients most other anti-seizes have. Without the copper it would be safe on stainless. The metallic base is what gives the anti-seizes mentioned their higher temperature operating ranges... 500 degrees is probably more than I'll ever get a precision barrel though. Aluminum was approximately 1600F, Copper 2200F and Nickel 2400F... Probably extreme overkill for my applications or any serious hunter or target shooter.
Last edited by Russmerle; 02-05-2016 at 11:34 AM.
Yeah didn't think it had copper in it but a copper tone was what I was using to describe it. I think it would work just fine. Going to try it out when I get my action back from getting another barrel screwed on.
I have been using something similar for years on the back side of the bolt lugs to prevent any galling and for slicker bolt movement. Works great. I use Rem Oil as well but just for a basic cleaning off of lug area, bolt and inside action. Never to lube the bolt. Just too thin.
The stuff I have came in an unnamed syringe from Kelbly's years ago with a Stolle Panda action. It's sort of gray-green.
I use the Permatex Nickel-based anti-sneeze from NAPA. Used it on coilovers during harsh NE winters, never had an issue with binding or corrosion on shocks or strut towers. Used it on all the barrels I've changed and never had an issue with galled threads either. I use it for everything, but I'm sure gun grease would work the same.
[I]"In the end, run what 'ya brung because it's better than nothing and don't give two ****s what some interwebs chat board guy says about your rig."[/I]
I'm going to have to buy another caliber, so I have an excuse to swap my barrel. I just finished my first barrel swap and used the copper anti-seize on a stainless barrel.
I just use Aeroshell 33MS. Same crap used for AR assembly.
Oh man, now you tell me! I've been using copper anti-sieze on stainless barrels too.
Has anyone tried Loctite heavy duty anti-seize? Says that it is free from copper, lead, sulfur and their compounds. Says that it is outstanding with stainless steel. As soon as my headspace gauges come in i think i am going to be using this to install my new barrel.
i just had a thought reading through this again(dangerous i know), what effect if any do these anti-seizes have on the actions?? i'm not sure what the actions are actually made of but is any of these corrosive to actions?
Bruce
Holy Crap!!
Because its blued, I'm guessing my action is steel... In that case, from what I've read, none of the anti-seize lubricants listed should do much harm to regular steel. If it is carbon steel, however, the aluminum base would basically cease to exist and then allow corrosion to occur. Is there a possibility the actions are carbon steel?
I'm sooo glad I saw this. I was using a copper based anti-seize on my stainless barrels. I have since acquired and now use a nickel based product by Permatex that is designed for stainless steel. I got it off Amazon...
Thanks YOU!
I picked up a jug of the nickel Permatex back in my days of wrenching on aircraft, and still have much of it all these years later. Brush is a little frazzled looking, but there is still quite a bit left, even after using it on everything that I knew that I would have to take apart again someday. Spark plugs and shock bolts are a good example. Only takes about two or three molecules to cover everything in the immediate area and doesn't react with any kind of steel or aluminum.
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