Reply With QuoteIt also eliminates the effect of sear pressure unloading the top locking lug on a tensioned (cocked) bolt or whats known as "bolt slap".Originally Posted by outlawkyote
Bill
Do you load your own ammo?
When loading your ammo do you remove the burs in the flashole? Surely it doesnt make much difference? Do you uniform the primer pockets? Do you weigh each load? Do you check your runnout? Do you turn the necks? Do you make you bullets set exactly equal to each other? Do you weigh your brass? Do you measure each bullet for bearing surface? Do you weigh each bullet?
If you dont, T&Ting an action may not do anything for you.
How much can it be off? Have you seen all the posts on here about people needing Z rings just to get their scope adjusted close enough to hit paper? Ive had one that needed 20moa bases to get the bullet on paper at 100yds. It shot like crap but ever since Fred T&Td the action, its one of my best shooters now.
Having the floating head crooked can cause the firing pin to strike inconsistantly too; obviously causing poor accuracy.
It also eliminates the effect of sear pressure unloading the top locking lug on a tensioned (cocked) bolt or whats known as "bolt slap".
Bill
No I do not hand load so I don't do the things you mentioned. I was just asking how much the bolt head can actually shift is all. And yes I have had to use the Signature Zee rings to get the scope lined up properly. I was merely thinking that if the action is off that much the floating bolt head wouldn't move enough to completely line up with the locking lug recesses so you would have to have the action squared anyway along with the bolt head/face. I'm no expert though so I was asking just so I could learn.
I find that a T&T'd action is much easier to work the bolt on without disturbing the gun on the rest.
I did notice an accuracy improvement (1" to 3/4" at 200 yards) on one of the two rifles that I sent to Fred at SSS.
I am a fan of SSS action work, especially for a varmint rifle.
In my opinion, on a hunting rifle you will probably not get as much benefit.
Keith
Bolt deflection can be as much as 1.5 degrees and still get complete contact on both lugs. This amounts to about .050" at the rear of the bolt body from the bolt head in any and all directions. However if a receiver was this far off, it would probably suffer from lug shift upon firing. As the bolt is turned down there is a tension caused by the cocking piece pin compressing the spring. If the closing ramps are not square to the remaider of the bore,one lug makes contact before the other, and in effect the first contact point acts as a fulcrum from the tension and the whole bolt head is shifted sliftly askew. It will stay that way until the tension on the firing pin spring is released by firing. At this point once the tension is released the bolt head tends to snap back in the opposite direction, not just back to theoretical center, but past it. This can cause flyers in small to larger degrees.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
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