Accustock Accuracy Screw tightening

[Forest Protector]

Hi all together!

I recently purchased a Model 10 PH (Accustock without the wedge) and faced exactly the same problem as dnsmith did. Prior to disassembling the gun for setting the trigger the tang was absolutely snug to its base on the stock without any pressure (no wear marks or scrates on the stock's paint underneeth it). When I laid the action and the barrel back into the stock I could tilt it forth and back slightly. After tightening down the screws as described the tang sticks out one millimeter opening that small gap. The weapon performs flawlessly and precisely. Nevertheless it is not as it should be and the system is now certainly under pressure. Of course I inspected the stock carefully but couldn't find anything deformed, scratched, out of shape or otherwise indicating a damage.

I found two or three entries with similar problems but none of them offered a proper solution or answer. Can anybody shed a little light on that?

Thank you guys in advance!

[mudpig]

Thanks for the advice I think I'll take it to a gun smith in the reno area and see if they can fit it up a little better. That bolt binding a little when tightened worries me a little can't help but feel the bed and action are fighting each other a little bit they might have too take alittle off the recoil lug not sure but if they do that I think the front action screw might need shaved also. I'll listen to all advice just started shooting savage rifles a year and half or so bought f-class in 6.5x284 the first one went back before I got to the range as I cleaned it before shooting noticed the cleaning rod quit spinning about half way down barrel. there was six inches of rifling missing. Had a new gun in a week and it shoots very well. I then bought my daughter the savage 7.08 youth model with 120 gr bullets get about 3/4 in group with 45gr varget good med size game gun. Muzzle brake and I put a kick ease on it. It came with plastic butt recoil pad my daughter is just tiny no meat on shoulder heck i didn't like it much either but now it's sweet to shoot. She out shoots her boy friend and his friends so they don;t let her shoot targets with them any more. That's all right more time I get to spend shooting with her.

I bought the same 7mm-08 for my wife. I added a decelerator pad to it after chopping 3/4 inch from the butt. I found the Barnes 140TSX with 48gr of W760 shoots 1/3 MOA and 47gr of W760 with 140 Rem Core lok shoot 3/4 MOA for cheap plinking. Should be good for all animals up to elk :)

[Twinsen]

Do not follow these instructions for a new Accustock, as it will destroy the stock.


I just followed these instructions and it destroyed mine. I could not even get the rear screw up to 10 inch pounds. It's a sheet metal screw going into plastic. Trying to go to 40-45 inch pounds is impossible. Before 10 inch pounds the plastic Accustock stripped right out.

Have a nice day.

[thomae]

I just followed these instructions and it destroyed mine. I could not even get the rear screw up to 10 inch pounds. It's a sheet metal screw going into plastic. Trying to go to 40-45 inch pounds is impossible. Before 10 inch pounds the plastic Accustock stripped right out.
Have a nice day.

Since you have resurrected an old thread, let me jump in with a word of explanation:
Originally, the Accustock had three action screws. That design was changed after only about a year or so. Newer (and hence the vast majority of) Accustocks have only two action screws.
The rear action screw is usually hidden under the bolt release button in the front of the trigger guard.

The instructions are still good, but one simply alternates between the two action screws until reaching the desired torque value.

The action screws have a very different head than the small phillips screw that holds the trigger guard, and it is presumed that most people know the difference.
That is not a personal attack, nor am I calling you or anyone else a dummy...I've made lots of mistakes myself.

If that back trigger guard screw gets stripped, the fix is easy. If it were me, I would simply fill the hole with JB Weld or a similar epoxy. Once the epoxy had fully cured, I would drill a new pilot hole for the screw.