To further cloud the picture, I see that the cocking piece pin is canted to the rear of the bolt when in the cocked position. The link below is from a previous forum thread related to this issue. I will hunt around for a replacement cocking pin sleeve and cocking pin to see if it will improve bolt lift. If it's not the sleeve and pin, something else changed when I disassembled the bolt.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...-in-bolt/page2
One remedy is to continue threading the the cocking piece 1/4-28 so the back of the pin is threaded. Then use a small 1/4-28 set screw in the back. Don’t tighten it so the cocking piece can not spin, but just enough to limit play & keep the pin at 90 degrees. I do this with mine.
That's above my pay grade Dave. I ordered a firing pin assembly, cocking pin, and a Glades Armory bolt handle. I'll work on this until I arrive at a reasonable bolt lift for prone shooting. Thanks for the feedback.
If it is mounted to the stock, try taking the front action screw out. If that doesn't fix it try polishing the cocking piece and test fitting everything making sure it moves freely. Make sure the cross pin is indexed where the firing pin slides smoothly.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I received the parts I ordered. The firing pin was marked as a "small version". It was longer than the stock pin I have. I tried it in the bolt. It increased the firing pin protrusion by about .010". I polished the stock pin everywhere I could reach with a leather wheel. Scrubbed the inside of the cocking sleeve with Rem 40X on a patch. Replaced the detent ball lift kit, with one machine washer between the Glades Armory bolt handle and BAS. Stripped the bolt head and rechecked headspace with the go gauge. An unscientific test of cocking lift with a Wheeler spring gauge is 6.5lbs. Pin protusion is about .052". I'm happy again. Thanks for the previous feedback.
Still really long protrusion, but if you’re happy that’s all that matters. Glad it worked out for you.
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