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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrenGuy View Post
    What’s that white thing that looks like it is preventing your release blade from going all the way back ?
    That is a the metal of the lever lifted as a tab. It just looks white from the reflection light. Doesn’t prevent the lever from travel. Is as it should be. Just a camera trick. LOL.


    We need a little more info Vartarg... Like celltech said, it’s in position of open bolt. What heppens with bolt closed? When did this start? Have you had anything apart?

  2. #2
    Basic Member Vartarg's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]I’ve had the bolt apart, but haven’t touch the trigger mechanism.

    The first photo is with the bolt back, and second is with the bolt down....the sear moves about 1/8”...

    Thanks,

    George

  3. #3
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    When you close the bolt, the cocking piece pin is driven rearward by the cocking ramp and at full bolt open that pin is set on a divot at the top of the ramp holding the firing pin at full cock. At this point the firing pin is retracted with no protrusion. As you close the bolt(The cocking piece pin applies pressure to a part of the sear that protrudes into the bolt lug raceway) the cocking piece pin begins it's fall foreward while pushing the sear "lever" with it by function of the trigger hanger pin as a pivot, the bottom portion of the sear swings rearward and catches on the trigger.

    To me, It looks as if the bolt is closed and the sear has not advanced rearward. If what I am seeing is true then for some reason the firing pin is possibly binding and not allowed to move freely.

    This leads me to the question, have you disassemble the bolt recently? If so did you disassemble the firing pin?
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  4. #4
    Basic Member Vartarg's Avatar
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    Yes...I did disassemble the bolt, removed the firing pin assembly but did not the front lugs.

  5. #5
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    You have the bolt assembled 180 degrees out of phase......the cocking piece pin should be on the right side.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  6. #6
    Basic Member Vartarg's Avatar
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    I agree but an not sure how to straighten it out....

    I began to disassemble the bolt, but can’t get the cocking piece in a position to remove it.

    ???

    Thanks[IMG][/IMG]

  7. #7
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Pull the bolt out and remove the BAS. Rotate the bolt handle 180 degrees. Replace the BAS. The Cocking Pin should be on the right side going in.

    We can work through the pin removal if you have to. only if you put the bolt head on 180 out or you messed with the firing pin/spring stop.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  8. #8
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    It looks like the bolt head is fine. If your protrusion is measured to be .040" then you just need the handle on the correct side.

    Thanks sharpshooter. You always keep it simple where my mind goes to the most complex.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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