On my precision action, I hardly notice it. I'll have to do
a check and get back. Also wondering, with the several
versions of the trigger if Savage did a tweak on each one
to keep the lawyers in their chairs !!
During my last range session I experimented with wireing the blade to it's rear position to the trigger. Still can't find any mechanical reason for the drastic differences in the required pull Wt. to fire the weapon .
So, what have you'll done to reduce the pull Wt. on the safety blade ??, Cut off a couple of coils, replaced it with ____________ ??
Thank you
On my precision action, I hardly notice it. I'll have to do
a check and get back. Also wondering, with the several
versions of the trigger if Savage did a tweak on each one
to keep the lawyers in their chairs !!
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
Hu? Why does it matter? You take up the slack in the safety blade before you get to the trigger.
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Just for the hell of it, I bent some copper wire into a hook
then place it on the blade. I kept snipping off some wire
until the blade stayed in place......73.8 grains That's about
1/6th of an ounce.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
I've read of others replacing the accutrigger blade spring using a ballpoint pen spring. Choose one that is on the weaker side if you prefer. Are you referring to a Target (red blade) Accutrigger?
Over the years I've replaced all the triggers on my original model 12FV actions with used Target Accutriggers purchased on this site. A very effective and inexpensive upgrade.
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
safety blade spring for target Accutrigger # 106426
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I am quite fond of the Accutrigger. Besides the safety function, it’s the closest thing we can get to a 2-stage for our Savage actions.
I extensively modify Accutriggers though. I use custom springs and a set screw(lathed down) to function as OT adjustment. Brass shims to eliminate play. My trigger feels like a REALLY nice 2-stage. I’ve felt the best triggers available and I like this better.
If you don’t like the safety blade, either remove it, or get an aftermarket. But if you tried mine, I think you would be extremely surprised.
I don’t understand post #5, and what Fuj’ did with the copper wire. And what is 1/6th of an ounce???
I’m not sure what he did either...with the wire bent into a hook?
talking about 1/6 oz, he is referring to weight. 73.8 grains. There are 437.5 grains per Ounce. So I’m guessing he is speaking of actual weight. How that corresponds to trigger “pull” weight I have no idea.
Edit: ok, I think what he means is he used the wire bent like a hook, to use as a weight on the blade. And he continued clipping wire until int went from depressing the blade, to not, and then measured the weight of the wire at 73.8 grains.
The only thing is spring weight...and more importantly spring rate doesn’t work like that. But it’s really not important as the safety blade spring does not add to the overall trigger weight.
I would have never come to that conclusion without the Dave ciphering it for me. Thanks Mr Hoback!
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
IF you are saying that the 8.5 to 10.5 Oz. that it takes to depress the blade to where the pull gauge starts pulling on the trigger, and the total pull Wt. read on the Lyman trigger pull weight gauge is 2# 14 oz. If as one suggested remove the blade and it's 8.5 to 10.5 oz, required to engage the actual trigger, then the pull weight required to "break" the trigger would be 2# 14 oz less the 8.5 to 10.5 ox.
If Fred at SSS addresses the reported "creep" from the Jard 6 -10 oz trigger when My. Baker takes an action to him to be T&T'ed Then I'll replace it.
Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.
I’m not sure what or if you are asking me something?? I’m sorry...I’m dense on some things. LOL.
What I meant in the portion you made bold, is a lighter spring placed before a heavy spring does NOT increase total compression weight. For instance, if you put a 1lb spring before a 4lb spring....the total weight does not become 5lbs. It will remain 4lbs.
I think what Fuj did was use the copper wire (formed in a hook so it stayed on the blade) to measure the actual weight it took to keep the blade depressed.
No way I'm buying the blade has an 8.5 - 10.5oz "pull" before touching the actual trigger. I have a target accutrigger on my 10fp that's set to a 10 pull average of 8.5ozs and I can assure you the blade is fully depressed before my finger ever touches the trigger. The varmint accutrigger on my 12FV with a 10 pull average breaking clean at 1.5lbs and I haven't touched that since it came out of the box.
Edit to add:
Decided to provide real data, these are "blade only" averages from both two rifles:
Target accutrigger - 4.2oz
Varmint accutrigger - 5.5oz
Don't have a standard accutrigger to test. Based on my results, it could be Fuj was referring to blade weight rather than blade pull. He'll have to elaborate.
Last edited by PhilC; 01-14-2020 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Add info
I should have posted a pic.....LOL But yeah. It only
takes 1/6 of an ounce to fully collapse "MY" blade.
And why I mentioned in an earlier post; I hardly notice
it during the initial pull......I do love my 2 stage triggers
on my RRA's. I may just add more spring to my blade
and see if I like it better !!
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
Not worth it.
You and me both Fuj! I am very fond of 2-Stage triggers. I played with different springs until I found what felt perfect to my finger. My Accutrigger now feels good as ANY aftermarket trigger I have tried. And considering it cost me a couple bucks of springs and set screws, plus a little of my time preparing the surfaces, it has been BY FAR a better option.
I just think that there is a point of “diminishing returns” with triggers. People think “light pull” when it comes to triggers. And they like that little doohickey trigger-mabobber to tell them it’s good. I don’t even use one of those things. I let my finger be the judge. I’ve been doing triggers on rifles & pistols for over 20 years. I know what feels right to me. Pull weight alone does not a good trigger make. I’ve set up 1911s with around 4lb weight, smooth as silk with no noticeable creep or overtravel, next to one with 3lb creep, grit & overtravel all to hell! And the heavier one I set up FELT LIGHTER!
Style of trigger is a preference. Some like 2-stage, some like standard. And others still prefer set triggers(which I detest!). My point is trust what feels good to your index finger’s mind! Not what a trigger doohickey is TELLING you!
What he said !! I have on accu target trigger ready for my
next build. I have it set for 1.5 lbs. Very clean, on the edge break.
Feels in the ounce range. Someone took some care doing this one
at the factory. I'll leave it at 1.5 lbs for initial range work then I'll
have plenty of room to adjust down.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
First let me apologize for how my post came across, I realize now some personal issues I'm dealing with may have been injected without intent.
My intent was to share, for reference, what the blade only pull weight was on the two I do have. Maybe someone who has a standard version will post similar data. I know trigger pull weights are different on all three versions of the accutrigger but don't know if the same holds true for the blade spring. In retrospect, I'd have worded my response differently.
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