Ok, here we go again, but seeing as how I saw it first I get to answer first!
I prefer the action wrench and specifically NSS supplied as its setup very nicely and gives you specs for the clamp bolts, action screw as well as putting a nut back on. I researched it, thought it was best for me and more than happy with 5 barrels swaps.
Others like the barrel vice.
tie breaker may be if you have a decent size vice, though you and lay it flat on a bench and do it that way.
Look at some U tubes of people doing it and that may get you the feel for what seems to suit you.
The nut is one of those we need more data as its a bit limited as to how tight they are putting them on.
I just did one and it came off very easy with a 12 inch pipe wrench. I did a segmented nut that didn't want to come off with a barrel nut wrench (7 inch) and a break b ar (another 17 inches)
It may be the smooth nuts are not going on as tight.
If that does not work then its
1. Longer pipe wrench
2. Heat the nut up to about 300 degrees (you can get temple stick at any welding supply shop that is a crayon calibrated to melt at a given temperature)
3. cut it off or weakened it with cuts. That takes a good hand and experience, dremel will do it.
Barrels are like the action wrench vs the barrel wrench.
I don't know you can go wrong with Criterion, Shilen, X-Caliber, McGowan and quite a slew of the rest.
My preference is to go with the OEM and have it one stop shop for the work (Shilen). that way if anything is wrong its not a issue between the barrel maker and whoever put the Savage threads on it and chambered it. that said I got an X-Caliber that I think was a blank done by Apache and its good, I got a Shilen from them and ditto.
some of the members have additional recommends and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them from the group.
You want to go Cut Rifle and then you get into Krieger, Brux, and longer waits. Maybe a better barrel but I don't see me shooting that good.
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