I switched the Accustock on my Mod 10 PH Max 1 to a B&C M40. Although I love the feel of the stock and everything else, in my case it didn't make it any more accurate.
Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings and help me out with a new stock.
Shooting prone has been tricky to say the least with my factory Savage Model 10TR in .308
It seems even the slightest change in load on the bipod throws my shots turning groups into large patterns. Shooting off the bench results in a 3-4" upward shift in POI.
A nice fellow at the range today said it was probably the Accustock flexing too much. I thought the Accustock was supposed to be a good rigid platform?
Anyways, he suggested I get an aftermarket stock (Bell and Carlson M40, etc) in order to eliminate or at least greatly decrease the variability caused by the factory stock.
Any suggestions for an aftermarket stock?
Should I get one with an adj cheek piece, or just use my Karsten adj cheek piece that is currently slipping down on the factory stock?
Thanks for any and all input on this! I greatly appreciate it!
I switched the Accustock on my Mod 10 PH Max 1 to a B&C M40. Although I love the feel of the stock and everything else, in my case it didn't make it any more accurate.
The Accustock is decent enough for where the action sits, but upfront it flexes a bit more than it should.
If you search the site, you'll find instructions on hogging out the front end, and epoxying aluminum arrow shafts to stiffen the forend.
Otherwise yes, most every factory rifle will benefit from an aftermarket stock. Lots of good ones out there, making it fit you is the big trick.
Personally, I love my Manners stock, but for the money, it's hard to beat the B&C offerings. There are several chassis on the market that do a great job, without spending a lot of extra money for bottom metal.
Choate is as rigid as they come, as the alum bedding block extends into the forend.
I suggest that if your accustock is flexing, then dont have an elephant sitting on it when you shoot.
I would guess something else is inconsistent.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Ok, update. I was being a dumbass and causing a burr to be drug up from the bottom of the bullet upon seating. I thought it was a burr on the brass, but after closer inspection, it was copper from the bullet jacket. I went ahead and dumped all of the powder out that I'd already weighed, and proceeded to chamfer the mouth of every case. Wallah! The problem went away.
Weird thing is, I didn't chamfer any of these cases last year when I loaded them up, and there was no problem. The Lapua brass actually looked as if it already had a chamfer on it, but apparently not enough.
So, just an update, problem solved.
Last year when you loaded them, was the brass new? I chamfer every time I load just to eliminate error and keep things consistent.
Yes, it was the exact same brass, never fired. I had them loaded up, but with charges that were too high. I pulled all of the bullets and powder, and re-charged the cases with a lower powder charge, and re-seated the bullets.
I thought the virgin Lapua brass was already chamfered, since it kind of looked like it, and I never shaved any bullets last time.
As you fire and reload the cases be sure to check length and trim as necessary. Trimming will obviously remove the chamfer. Lots of folks, myself included, do a quick check, trim and chamfer after every firing, just part of the process.
Take a look at the MDT, I just put mine in the HS3 chassis and there is a world of difference. I'm done with the flex that came with the original stock.
http://mdttac.ca/hs3-chassis-system.html
Last edited by luc voyer; 10-27-2015 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Better infos
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