I have a model 112 that has a messed up base hole, the rear most hole in the set in front of the port. I'm using a Leupold 1 piece base. The base has 3 holes, one that sits in the rear, and 2 in the front. Do you think that 2 mounting screws would be sufficient to hold the base on? It would be both forward screws in the 2 sets of holes if that makes sense. Caliber is 220 swift, so not a really hard kicker.
So what is messed up?
I stripped out a base screw hole on a M70 and fixed it quite easily by drilling and tapping to the next size (#6).
Got everything I needed from Brownells.
Should hold even better now.
To answer your question, 2 screws may hold ok, but it may help to epoxy bed the base to help stop any movement/flexing.
It is just a 22 cal, but it is one of the very biggest chamberings. A heavy scope will add stress also.
It had a broken off screw in one of the holes, the previous owner tried to drill it out and got off center. Now it has a oval hole instead of a round hole. Great news is I got the rifle for a song, bad news is the hole is messed up. I was thinking about welding the hole shut, marking where the hole should be with the base in place, then drill and tap myself a new hole.
I wouldn't trust it on my rifle. I would do as WYcoyote suggests and re-tap the rear screw...a gunsmith can also tap it for a few bucks.
The hole where the rear screw goes is oblong and way bigger than the original size.
The rear screw hole in the front of the action is the one messed up. (Not my rifle in the picture)
Re-drill and tap bigger would be best option, but another thought would be get a new base that uses all 4 holes, and then just use 1 screw in the front and 2 in the back. A lil finger nail polish on the threads of the screws will hold them snug and still be simply removed if needed. Shouldn't be any less holding power than the Leopold that has 2 in front and 1 in back.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Yeah I was going to also suggest investing in a new 1 piece base that uses all 4 holes and just use the 3 good ones as probably the cheapest and best option shy of metal work...1 piece bases that use all 4 holes can be had from a variety of places such as EGW, DNZ, Leupold, Redfield, Millet, and a few others at a reasonable cost.
I have a 1 piece base that I'm not using that's 20moa. I had problems with this rifle before and actually had to use Burris rings with an added 20moa in the rear and -10moa in the front giving me 30 moa total. I set the windage with the base also. I guess I can try putting the 20 moa base on with a set of picitinny rings and see what happens
Drill and tap, Drill and tap, Drill and tap!
The hole that is there is way to big for the screw to be in the stock location. The only way I can drill and tap is if I welded the hole shut and started over. It won't let me post pics in this thread or I would so you guys could see what I mean.
Why wont it let you post pictures?
I don't know. It will let me post a url to a picture, but not actually upload a photo off my computer.
The site won't let anybody load a photo off their computer. You have to have a free acount at some website like photobucket. Right click on any photo in any post on this site and the url will show you what site the picture was uploaded to.
If you take it to a "smith", he can take care of that oblong hole for you. Or as suggested, get a one piece base that will let you use 3 holes.
If you drill and tap a larger screw in place of what's there then JB Weld it in place so that it becomes permanent like a plug, let it set up then use a Dremel to grind it off even with the top of the receiver.
Then re-drill and tap with the proper stuff........it'll work just fine. polish it up a bit to match the rest of the action, re-blue and your in business.
Make sure it doesn't get into the barrel threads and interfere with the barrel threading.
Don't weld on that receiver unless you REALLY know what your doing., it has already been heat treated and tempered the welding can it screw it up........if you don't post here in a while, we will think you welded on it.
Last edited by Apache; 07-23-2013 at 11:36 PM.
I put a 20 moa base on it, it has 2 screws in the rear, and 1 screw in the very front. I'm not sure when I'll get the chance to shoot it since I'm moving this weekend, but I will keep everyone posted.
Well I got a chance to shoot it tonight after work, I could only shoot 35 yards. I centered the scope both horizontally and vertically and shot 3 rounds. They were all in a tiny group 8 inches below the bullseye. The scope is a Leupold VXIII 8.5-25x50 lr model with the 30mm tube. I would like to stay right around the center of my mechanical adjustments. How far off will I be at 100 yards if I'm 8" low at 35 yards? Should I shim the rear of the base?
Thats funny... You got a 20 min base. So now the scope is pointing down 20 min or 1/3 of a degree if the base is installed properly. So with your scope centered and pointing at the target, you should now be shooting 20 min high. ~20 in at 100 yards = 20 * 35/100 = 7" high at 35 yards. But you say you are shooting 8" low ??? Sounds like you put the base on backwards or your elevation turret is nowhere near centered... The thin part of the base should be facing forwards. Thick part to the rear.
I concur...Pictures?
I had a std Leupold 1 piece base with burris signature rings on the rifle before. I had the .020 insert in the rear adding 20 moa, the front ring had a .010 insert subtracting 10 moa. That gave me a 30 moa base essentially. The rifle has a round front and a flat rear on the receiver, so there's only 1 way to mount the base. I believe that the action was milled incorrectly when it was originally made. I did some reading on the subject awhile ago when I first ran into this problem and the consensus was that Savage had some qc problems with the flat backed receivers.
So if you remove your bolt and bore sight the rifle (get an aiming point at 50 yards centered in the bore with the rifle on a stable rest), then check where the scope is pointed at. A 20 minute base should put the scope aiming point 20 min below where the bore is pointed at.
It doesn't matter at the end. The question is really whether you can zero at an acceptable range to you, and when you are done, how much up elevation is remaining. Being 8" low at 35 yards suggests you will be rather low on elevation by the time you have zeroed if it is even possible.
Did you try applying pressure at the front base hole position without any screws in the rear to see if that creates a gap at the rear ? If that is the case, then you can use bedding compound to bed the rear of the base (without tightening the rear screws !) to allow it to be installed stress free and hopefully with the right angle. When it is all set up and cured for 24 hours, then you can torque the rear screws and re-install the rings and scope.
I know for a fact that with the std base and 30 moa of elevation added the old scope that was on it was mechanically centered and pretty much spot on. This makes sense to me being 8" low with only 20 moa of added elevation. I'm planning on shimming the rear of the base an additional .020-.030 depending on the thickness of feeler gauge I can get, and having plenty of long range adjustment. I'll keep everyone posted once I start messing with it, it will be next week sometime.
No...that gave you a 10 MOA base...Originally Posted by quarterbore
I had the .020 insert in the rear with the + .20 on the bottom, I had a .010 insert in the front with the -.010 on the bottom. That gave me + .030 moa. Adding .020 in the rear and taking away .010 in the front is a .030 cant toward the front.
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