Reply With QuoteBlue. Do NOT use red! It's designed for much larger diameter screws/bolts.
Kevin
Having some problems keeping scope base mounted tightly. Screws seem to work themselves loose no matter how tight they are torqued. What type of locktite would be correct to help stop this problem? Gun is a 7mm08 Lh. Hunter. Any help will be greatly appreciated. ???
Blue. Do NOT use red! It's designed for much larger diameter screws/bolts.
Kevin
Read on another post that the blue is the one to use on smaller screws. Anyone know otherwise, please speak-up.
I typically use the purple #222 on my bases.
-Jake
I use the blue on all the smaller screws.
Thanks for all the info so far. Will check into these soon.
be careful of going just by the colors! Some cheaper brands use the same colors but are different strengths.
Just make sure you use one that is a medium strength, or says re-enterable...
”I have a very strict gun control policy: if there’s a gun around, I want to be in control of it.”
~Clint Eastwood
242 (blue)
NONE!
Something is not lined up correctly.
ALL of my rifles and the rifles I build do not have loctite on any screws.
A touch of grease on the threads and under the bolt head.
The 338 RUM (32" Rock Creek barrel, Nightforce 8-32x56 NXS - heavy scope) that we shoot all the time, does not have issues with anything loosening. This rifle shoots 300 gr SMK's like a dream....at 2950 fps.
I agree with dcloco on this one and I think Fred at SSS once stated the same thing. If all is correct, including torque, no thread locker is needed or desired.
Charlie
laportecharlie
Blue medium strength #242.
But if the screws have ever been over-torqued, you may need new screws. Over-tightening the screws can stretch them past the normal working load and once that happens, you'll be lucky if you can ever get them to stay tight.
You definitely shouldn't be having trouble keeping screws tight on a 7mm-08.
[b]A witty saying proves nothing - Voltaire (1694-1778)[/b]
I agree, but if your gonna use it, better use low or intermediate strength not the red
+1, Blue #242.Originally Posted by bythebook
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
I agree Blue Loctite never Red another suggestion when I mount a base on a rifle I set the screws by tapping the instulation tool by tapping with a hammer as I am turning the screw and I have never had a base shoot loose. I worked part time in a sporting goods store for 13-1/2 years and I mounted 100's of bases rings and scopes plus my own. Lou
A great civilization is not conqured from without,until it has destroyed itself from within. In God We Trust
Red can be used but heat may be needed to be applied to the bolt to loosen up the loctite when removing the bolt.
Heat will loosen loctite.
+1
Sounds to me like you have a stripped screw(s).
If the threads in the scope base mounting holes in the action are dirty, galled or otherwise messed up, clean them out with a degreaser like Gun Scrubber. Brake cleaner works too, just keep these away from your stock. Then chase the threads with a #6-48 tap, with a drop of oil. Clean again. Then use new screws and torque to 25-30 in.-lbs. If you suspect a mounting hole to have been stripped, then I wouldn't tighten it as much, and then i would use the blue loctite. Otherwise you shouldn't need it.
Also make sure the front mounting screws are not bottoming out against the bolt head or barrel shank.
Blue Loctite only. No heat required to remount later. Absolutely will NOT come undone on it's own after install, and does not have ANY negative effect on mounting. Never loctite anything but your bases and ensure the base to action contact surface is clean and free of dirt, oil, etc. Optionally, you may place a film of silicone lube between the bases and action if you have any concerns that you may get rusting or galvanic corrosion due to dissimialr metals (but make damn sure it's a 100% clean and thin film of silicone grease). Always use proper torque specs - NEVER over torque bases or rings.
.22LR * 6.5x47 Lapua * .223 Rem * .308 Win * 260 Rem * Large Cojones!
[I]"I can prove anything by statistics except the truth."[/I]
Blue Loctite only. No heat required to remount later. Absolutely will NOT come undone on it's own after install, and does not have ANY negative effect on mounting. Never loctite anything but your bases and ensure the base to action contact surface is clean and free of dirt, oil, etc. Optionally, you may place a film of silicone lube between the bases and action if you have any concerns that you may get rusting or galvanic corrosion due to dissimialr metals (but make damn sure it's a 100% clean and thin film of silicone grease). Always use proper torque specs - NEVER over torque bases or rings.
OK so what is considered "over torqued" for 6-48 base screws in your opinion?
I would figure as long as they are torqued from 15 to 25 inch lbs you should be GTG
Purple is made for fine threads but have used blue also.
Never use red.
Not necessary and impossible to break loose with tiny screws etc.
Blue
I'm another vote for 'something isn't right'. I'd check the action/base mate. Base may need bedded to get a stress-free mount. Use fresh screws. As stated before, stretched screws won't be reliable. If using anything other than signature rings, I'd lap the rings to prevent scope kink in the case of a two piece base that aren't true to each other, you have a warped action, or the holes in your action for bases are drilled out-of-true. I haven't used any loctite on guns in years, and have not had a base or ring come loose. I torque bases and rings to 17-25 ft/lbs. Removing stress from the mounting set-up is more effective and safer for your rig than any amount of any loctite.
+1 to the "Don't use anything" camp, especially if you're using allen head screws. I couldn't begin to count the number of scope base screw heads (allen) that have stripped out on me over the years w/o having any loctite on them. The screws are soft and cheap and strip out easily, so using loctite is just begging to have to drill one out in the future.
Torx screws and flat-head screws are a little better, but not much. My problem with the Torx ones is finding a #15 bit that won't break with only 25-30 in/lbs of torque applied. Craftsman - broke. Blackhawk - broke. S&K - broke. Kobalt - broke. And don't even think about using cheap off-brand "made in China" torx drivers. As for the flat-heads, as with any flat-head screw it's imperative to use a screwdriver of the appropriate width.
My recommendation would be to 1) get new screws and 2) run a tap through the receiver holes to make sure the threads are good. If that didn't solve the issue I'd D&T the receiver to accept the slightly larger 8-40 screws.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Craftsman- Blackhawk- S&K- Kobalt- Made in China-....
Probably all.... Made in China.
I just had to do this with a new WSM action I bought. The screws wouldn't hold, so I just D&T up to 8-40 screws. Clean the threads and apply a very small amount of oil to the screws to get the proper torque. Dry threads don't take consistent/even torque in my experience.
Andrew
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