Oryx CAN be milled out to accept 3.85 CIP Magazine. Its beautiful 110FCP 300PRC

[Dave Hoback]

Nathan... unfortunately, if you felt “good” on every shot, then that is what it will do with THAT ammunition. Fact is, it’s just not going to do what you WANT with every load. It’s very typical to see huge differences between factory & worked up loads. Especially with factory rifles. Just nature of the best. Are you set to reload the prc?

[Fuj']

Bottom line, i may be having a custom barrel made if i cant get this down to .5" at 100 yards.

I'm really hoping that the most expensive savage i ever bought, will not end up being the worst shooting one i ever sold.

One factor not in this equation is the ammo your using. That barrel may be capable of shooting
bugholes but as has been said long ago....Garbage in, garbage out. Did you use factory ammo
or something you loaded ?? And yeah; That monopod is not doing you any favors. And if that
bipod can freely rotate on the spigot, again your not doing yourself any favors.

[nathantc]

One factor not in this equation is the ammo your using. That barrel may be capable of shooting
bugholes but as has been said long ago....Garbage in, garbage out. Did you use factory ammo
or something you loaded ?? And yeah; That monopod is not doing you any favors. And if that
bipod can freely rotate on the spigot, again your not doing yourself any favors.

On all my bipod equipped rifles, i shoot better groups with the cant being set where it "almost" freely moves. has always worked better for me, maybe not for others.
Hornady match 225g 300PRC, ammo is super hard to find right now so its all ive got (i know nothing about reloading). Usually get good result from Hornady match in other chamberings. Keep in mind this was only 100 yards, so that spread is terrible.

I'm thinking, even though that palm shelf grip worked for me in the past, it maybe hindering me on this rifle (inducing torque unknowingly to me), the monopod is nice for what it is, but not doing what i need. May try the oem MDT grip, and a rear bag next to be sure. Just to damned hot in the middle of the day. Don't like covering my rifle in sweat.

If changing all the "free" variables makes no difference. Ill lock the chassis into a shooting vice, use my air plunger for the trigger and see whats what. If that also fails, this barrel will be up for sale

Now, what i did do prior to shooting.
action screws torqued at 60 inch pounds
rail to receiver screws torqued at 25 inch pounds
Warne skyline mount to rail torqued at 25 inch pounds
warne skyline mount to scope torqued at 18 inch pounds.

So my theory is that should all be good to go.

[nathantc]

Nathan... unfortunately, if you felt “good” on every shot, then that is what it will do with THAT ammunition. Fact is, it’s just not going to do what you WANT with every load. It’s very typical to see huge differences between factory & worked up loads. Especially with factory rifles. Just nature of the best. Are you set to reload the prc?

I plan to, but this will be my first experience at reloading. So the 100 rounds i have, im saving the brass for now. Figure it should be doing better than that though. I have yet to have any rifle shoot that bad with Hornady Match. Not saying you are wrong about it. Just would really suck for me, as there are not many offerings in 300PRC just yet. And i know nothing about reloading just yet.

[Fuj']

On all my bipod equipped rifles, i shoot better groups with the cant being set where it "almost" freely moves.

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

[nathantc]

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

I like that idea. Ill give it a shot.

[nathantc]

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

OK decided to sweat my ass off. Keep in mind this gets expensive for me. The 20 rounds fired are $90 a box here locally. so ouch.

the blue squares are exactly 3/4" side to side for reference

First 2 groups fired are with the set up as it was

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/49pn3c.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/cw66mh.jpg

3rd and 4th are using a rolled up towel as a rear bag (dont own one) It was not at all better but i was happy to see a change. Crazy part is im not seeing that kind of error in the scope when firing. Its odd enough i almost want to try a different optic just to be sure, but changing how i rest the rear of the rifle changed the group pattern so probably not the issue

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/ks47ub.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/303gxa.jpg

5th group was using a craptastic gun rest as an adjustable rear bag. Also not so great (EDIT GROUP WAS ACTUALLY 1.25")

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/1hqtr2.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/7blifn.jpg

6th group was standing, rifle supported on the bipod, off hand in the hand hook position on the stock, last 5 rounds of the 20 fired. I cannot prove it, but the last two that are nearly touching to the left, were the last two fired, and both times i noticed i moved that direction as i fired. So i feel that group could have been better. (EDIT, GROUP WAS ACTUALLY 1.25")

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/vie4a1.jpg

All of this, what do you think of it. So far changing how the rifle is supported has changed the pattern. Standing i feel was better because i can get the recoil pad in a more comfortable position than i can prone. The cure for that should be here tuesday as i ordered this to fix it https://www.ebay.com/itm/284261538223

I feel now for sure its something im doing wrong, just not sure what exactly just yet. This is my first chassis rifle so maybe its a learning curve?

[nathantc]

one other thing to note is, every one of my "first" shots on each group, was the one closest to point of aim. Fluke, or clue idk.

[GrenGuy]

I have yet to see a Savage action torqued to 60 in #’s shoot well, I don’t care what the stock manufacturer recommends. Any rifle can benefit from torque tuning the action and I have found that figure to be 45 in/lbs or less, and depending on the rifle 30 can be enough. Even a metal chassis “can” benefit from bedding.

Your shooting a big boomer in a relatively light rifle. I think there’s a reason Your first round is POI and You best group is standing. If I had to shoot that round in that rifle prone or from a bench, I’m sure I would have a 1 1/2” FLINCH, and I ain’t no wimp. The first round is on, now the body knows what’s coming with the second.

For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard for initially establishing what a rifle will do. Your rifle may not like Hornady, no matter what success You had with it in the past. Your rifle demands reloading, IMO.

You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle. It is capable of hitting center mass at sniper distances, and is therefore acceptable. I suspect it can be improved.

In My opinion, Your in to big a hurry. Going out and shooting in uncomfortable conditions is not the best way to tune a rifle. A lot of good rifles have been sold at bargain prices because the owner tried to fix too many things at the same time.

I only rely on levels for initial bench set up. After that, I train Myself to plum the vertical cross hair by sight.

All of My comments were meant to by helpful, and I hope no offense was taken by any. Best of Luck with Your build.

[nathantc]

I have yet to see a Savage action torqued to 60 in #’s shoot well, I don’t care what the stock manufacturer recommends. Any rifle can benefit from torque tuning the action and I have found that figure to be 45 in/lbs or less, and depending on the rifle 30 can be enough. Even a metal chassis “can” benefit from bedding.

Your shooting a big boomer in a relatively light rifle. I think there’s a reason Your first round is POI and You best group is standing. If I had to shoot that round in that rifle prone or from a bench, I’m sure I would have a 1 1/2” FLINCH, and I ain’t no wimp. The first round is on, now the body knows what’s coming with the second.

For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard for initially establishing what a rifle will do. Your rifle may not like Hornady, no matter what success You had with it in the past. Your rifle demands reloading, IMO.

You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle. It is capable of hitting center mass at sniper distances, and is therefore acceptable. I suspect it can be improved.

In My opinion, Your in to big a hurry. Going out and shooting in uncomfortable conditions is not the best way to tune a rifle. A lot of good rifles have been sold at bargain prices because the owner tried to fix too many things at the same time.

I only rely on levels for initial bench set up. After that, I train Myself to plum the vertical cross hair by sight.

All of My comments were meant to by helpful, and I hope no offense was taken by any. Best of Luck with Your build.

i'll try different torque on the action screws. MDT recommends 65 inch pounds, i went with 60 due to only have a FAT wrench. I'm not opposed to bedding either. Machining the magwell could have altered the bedding.
Is 16.6 lbs considered light for this type of rifle?
Normally i shoot far better with just about anything, that being said this is the most recoil i've ever tried to shoot for groups with. Could definitely be i need to learn better recoil management.
I agree sub optimal conditions are not the best idea. I do however work in that nightmare daily. Still probably correct about that though. Sight in was in more comfortable weather, same exact results.
"You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle" This is true and maybe i'm hoping for to much. I'll be happy if i can consistently stay less than 1" though. Again, after yesterday im convinced its a combo of me, and setup. Not the rifle.
"For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard" I Had to google "FGMM" lol. As far as i know Hornady is the only ammo available right now in 300PRC. I do not know how to reload, or have any reloading equipment YET. This will be the chambering that i wet my feet on, so to speak.

absolutely no offence taken. Sound advice and constructive criticism are always welcome. Much more so than "You guys obviously prefer cool over performance. lol" and no context as to why that comment was made.

[nathantc]

messing around, trying a test a youtuber mentioned. I got set up at 100 yards, cock the rifle and put it on safe (safety selector). Get set up 100% like im going to fire, then pull harder on the trigger quickly than i would to fire while watching the reticle. Behold, i moved to the left OR the right every single time. Could not get this to quit no matter how i grip the rifle. Its not canting, just swinging left or right, very slightly that i can see, but we all know slight at this distance is huge at greater distance.

The cure i have found is extending the bipod legs just two notches taller. That 1" difference in height at the base of the bipod (7.5" to 8.5") mad a massive difference in how steady i can hold, and my trigger hand position. Ive always thought "as low as possible" was better. I have yet to try this live fire, but dry fire switching up position low, 1" high, and 2" high, i find im much more consistent dry fire at the 1" high mark on the bipod. It puts my head, and shooting hand in a more natural position as well as placing the recoil pad much more properly on my shoulder. not just the upper corner of the pad making contact with me.

When conditions allow (windy today) im wanting to try this.
Do you guys think there is reality to this, or am i psyching myself out. Got the idea to try this, mainly to get the recoil pad higher to meet my shoulder better and be more inline. Assuming that is why i did better standing than prone.

[Fuj']

Your first 2 groups are horizontal where as the following groups are vertical. The horizontal
groups are showing rotation of the rifle and possibly a combination of pulling. The simple
resting on a rifle can have a big impact on grouping. As was mentioned about action screws.
On all my target action, I'm never higher then 50 inch lbs. with MDT stocks. Have you
measured your trigger pull weight ??

[nathantc]

Your first 2 groups are horizontal where as the following groups are vertical. The horizontal
groups are showing rotation of the rifle and possibly a combination of pulling. The simple
resting on a rifle can have a big impact on grouping. As was mentioned about action screws.
On all my target action, I'm never higher then 50 inch lbs. with MDT stocks. Have you
measured your trigger pull weight ??

Ill back off the action screws. Should the two always be the same. And what would be the lowest safe torque to use as a starting point.
I do not have a means for measuring trigger pull weight. The trigger is the savage "target" trigger and was cleaned up by a local smith. Its as low as i can get it, without tripping it by closing the bolt hard. Any lower and it falls on the safety blade of the accutrigger.

I've always loved the accutrigger but i'm strongly leaning towards something else. First though ill put a lighter spring on the safety blade as its pull, is actually tighter than the trigger pull. Making it kinda weird. Just like the "safety" of the accutrigger is why im stubborn on replacing it. I like knowing if the sear falls on its own, the rifle does not go off.

The change from horizontal to vertical in the grouping actually was relieving to see. I feel better knowing its something im doing vs the rifle. Only other magnum rifle i ever owned was a 7mm rem mag. Light weight, plastic stock, sporter barrel no brake. Shoulder bruiser. So i never once tried to shoot for groups. Before this rifle, the hardest recoiling rifle i ever shot for accuracy was a 6.5cm and its a baby. Its new to me seeing recoil change a group. I dont have "flinch" issues. So im learning that the very instant the recoil starts and skew a group. Been watching a lot of "Mark and Sam after work" on youtube. Guy really seems to know what he is talking about. Doing so has shown me a few things im doing wrong.

The rifle as it sits is 16.6lbs. Not so sure the brake on it is as efficient as some other options may be. Bee looking into other options. Just not sure i would "feel" a difference, or see a difference in group.
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/4v4fis.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCs3sYk1tuP5Er95EniC-uMw

[nathantc]

i made a mistake in my not so good measurements on those groups. Group 5 and group 6 are both 1 1/4" not 1 3/4". I know that is trivial but makes me feel better knowing im closer to MOA on a 110*f day in open sunlight, no wind at all, no shade, and for whatever reason i could have checked my pulse looking threw the scope. Noticed that again today with some dry fire practice. Not sure what my deal is with that, it is unusual for me.

decided to take another look at those groups after watching this video. Different rifle, different shooter, different location, different weather. So i know, it's not apples to apples but it was with the exact same factory ammo. He got roughly the exact same result. So idk, maybe like mentioned, the ammo is the limiting factor. Gotta wait till im set up to reload to work on that though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N99w8WakUBc

https://imgdump5.novarata.net/2jrqqa.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/vb6gix.jpg

[nathantc]

now THIS is really going to help. Now i can get into a natural COMFORTABLE position behind the rifle without having to adjust my neck and shoulder to compensate to the rifle. I can also keep the recoil impulse in a direct straight line with the bore when in prone now. Before hand only the upper corner of the but pad landed low on my body making the rifle kinda want to go under me during recoil.
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/wcoma2.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/g93y02.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/5l6khw.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/b8etz7.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/l3zvg0.jpg


Ordered this from the Czech Republic. Its universal and would be extremely easy to use any recoil pad you like, on any rifle you want to attach it to. I will be upgrading my recoil pad to something thicker, and softer. When i do the spacers you see in the photos (came with the product) will be removed to compensate thickness. This thing is beautifully machined and finished. well worth the $125 shipped it cost me. I just might be cutting my boyds pro varmint stocks down to compensate for this on both of them.
https://www.tactical-evo.com/en/useful-accessories/86-adjustable-recoil-pad-universal.html

EDIT
here is this piece compared to the MDT spacer thickness for reference


https://imgdump5.novarata.net/1vcs2h.jpg
https://imgdump5.novarata.net/94itvb.jpg

[CFJunkie]

nathantc,

Sorry to intrude in your interesting interchange, but both my Oryx chassis mounted on 12FV Savage actions (.223 and 6.5mm Creedmoor) are torqued to 60 in.-lbs. and they both shoot great.
They are mounted on Sinclair Gen 3 F-Class bi-pods using a rear bag shot from a bench and my results are in both the Ammunition and Reloading threads and the 110-Series Bolt-Action Threads.
The Sinclair bipods don't rotate once clamped down so I can't speak to the impact of a bi-pod that moves while you are setting up.

The Oryx torque recommendation is 60 in.-lbs so the comments about Savage actions not being torqued that tight are not based on knowledge of Oryx stocks.

Don't give up on your new barrel just yet.
You obviously know what you are doing, and it looks to me that you have an outstanding set up. But it might help to check out a couple of little things that could be causing you problems with a new rifle with just a little time behind the trigger. Not every problem is solved by modifying equipment. Set-up consistency can eliminate a lot of shooter induced variations.

Consider that the Oryx stock has little to no drop in the stock (like a recoil tube AR) so if you have the rifle mounted low on the bench or low when you are shooting prone, you may be hunched over.
That would create real problems trying to get a consistent set up.
And variations in your set up will move the POI around, even if you think you are aiming at exactly the same point.

1) Moving in or out on the scope could be moving your POI up or down respectively. I have measured that about 1/8 inch change in eye relief can move your POI by 1/4 inch. It is that sensitive.

2) Also, if you are not on the optical plane of the scope, you could be moving the POI to the right or left.
(To avoid such problems, I check my position before each shot by slightly moving my head back from the scope eye piece until I see the black ring around the scope image.
If the black ring is concentric, I know I am on the optical plane and just move back until the ring goes away making sure it stays concentric until it just disappears. Stopping when the black ring just disappears also eliminates moving in too far on the scope and helps with eliminating item the problem described in item 1)

3) And lastly, if you are seeing the scope move off your POA after a shot, probably to the right, you have the butt of the stock too far out of the notch in you shoulder.
The recoil is pushing your shoulder back and the barrel is moving to the right.
Even a slight movement during recoil actually moves the POI even though the bullet takes only about 1 millisecond to go down the barrel.

I hope this helps.

[nathantc]

nathantc,

Sorry to intrude in your interesting interchange, but both my Oryx chassis mounted on 12FV Savage actions (.223 and 6.5mm Creedmoor) are torqued to 60 in.-lbs. and they both shoot great.
They are mounted on Sinclair Gen 3 F-Class bi-pods using a rear bag shot from a bench and my results are in both the Ammunition and Reloading threads and the 110-Series Bolt-Action Threads.
The Sinclair bipods don't rotate once clamped down so I can't speak to the impact of a bi-pod that moves while you are setting up.

The Oryx torque recommendation is 60 in.-lbs so the comments about Savage actions not being torqued that tight are not based on knowledge of Oryx stocks.

Don't give up on your new barrel just yet.
You obviously know what you are doing, and it looks to me that you have an outstanding set up. But it might help to check out a couple of little things that could be causing you problems with a new rifle with just a little time behind the trigger. Not every problem is solved by modifying equipment. Set-up consistency can eliminate a lot of shooter induced variations.

Consider that the Oryx stock has little to no drop in the stock (like a recoil tube AR) so if you have the rifle mounted low on the bench or low when you are shooting prone, you may be hunched over.
That would create real problems trying to get a consistent set up.
And variations in your set up will move the POI around, even if you think you are aiming at exactly the same point.

1) Moving in or out on the scope could be moving your POI up or down respectively. I have measured that about 1/8 inch change in eye relief can move your POI by 1/4 inch. It is that sensitive.

2) Also, if you are not on the optical plane of the scope, you could be moving the POI to the right or left.
(To avoid such problems, I check my position before each shot by slightly moving my head back from the scope eye piece until I see the black ring around the scope image.
If the black ring is concentric, I know I am on the optical plane and just move back until the ring goes away making sure it stays concentric until it just disappears. Stopping when the black ring just disappears also eliminates moving in too far on the scope and helps with eliminating item the problem described in item 1)

3) And lastly, if you are seeing the scope move off your POA after a shot, probably to the right, you have the butt of the stock too far out of the notch in you shoulder.
The recoil is pushing your shoulder back and the barrel is moving to the right.
Even a slight movement during recoil actually moves the POI even though the bullet takes only about 1 millisecond to go down the barrel.

I hope this helps.

I agree with all of the info you said about the scope, eye relief, and parallax. The scope is setup correctly for my eye. I have it mounted as far from the buttpad as possible so as when i get lined up, if i move my head rearwards at all, even a little bit, that black ring starts to show. So i do the the same. set the rifle up holding its self, look threw the scope not touching the rifle at all. make damn sure parallax is good. Then when getting ready to aim i move my head out of my comfortable position rearward slightly to see the black ring, move forward till the ring is gone (comfortable position) keeping a mental note to know that my cheek has not moved on the cheek rest. Then make my shot.

Raising the rifle bipod legs when in prone was only more comfortable because the buttpad was where it should be. I could not hold as steady as the rest of me was not in a relaxed position. Lowering it back down with the addition of the adjustable butt pad adapter has made it 100% comfortable. Recoil pad is now where it should be with me completely relaxed and comfortable. This im sure will help. Also there is an odd thing with this trigger where the safety blade has a really stiff spring, more so than the trigger pull weight. Not sure how that is effecting things but its not as natural to me as my other two savage accu triggers and this is their "target" model.

So for the time being i need to find a lighter spring for that safety blade, wait a lil longer for my anti-cant bubble level, and then actual comfortable weather so im not in such a hurry. I have a feeling with the new buttpad set up, and better weather ill improve on things. I fully agree trigger time is needed as i'm not used to this animal or 300 PRC. Today i shot my savage b22 22wmr and put a 5 shot group that was basically just one hole at 50 yards. But for some reason that trigger is simply better and it should not be. Its much more predictable. Predictable being the best word i can think of to describe it. Also there is 0 recoil so how its shouldered is far less important. or painful.

The 300 PRC started getting painful due to where the recoil pad landed on my shoulder in the prone position. It was to low, so only the upper corner made contact.

[CFJunkie]

Like I said, you obviously know what you are doing.
Sounds like you don't need any coaching.

I have nine Savage 110s and have 8 Varmint triggers and one Precision Target trigger (red blade).
The 8 Varmint triggers are set at 2 lbs and the Precision Target trigger is set at just over 1 lb.
All the safety blades simply move toward the trigger with almost no effort.
I suspect something is binding up your safety blade, if you even notice having to move it.

The only time I have ever noticed the safety blade was when I pressed it sideways instead of straight back.
With the trigger set light, it locks up the trigger - (a safety feature protecting against the trigger being hit from the side).

[nathantc]

Like I said, you obviously know what you are doing.
Sounds like you don't need any coaching.

I have nine Savage 110s and have 8 Varmint triggers and one Precision Target trigger (red blade).
The 8 Varmint triggers are set at 2 lbs and the Precision Target trigger is set at just over 1 lb.
All the safety blades simply move toward the trigger with almost no effort.
I suspect something is binding up your safety blade, if you even notice having to move it.

oh i don't know everything lol. constructive criticism is always welcome. This rifle im building to learn EXACTLY the things i clearly dont know well lol.
As for the trigger it does not seem to be binding, could be though. With the spring removed, it moves freely. The spring itself seems to stiff. I 100% forgot to take it apart and bring the spring with me to the hardware store this morning to see if i can find some replacements to use, cut, or modify to get it where its near unnoticeable. It only needs just enough to support the weight of the blade to catch the sear. I've thought of going aftermarket but i plan to do more than sit in a controlled environment. so i like the safety of the design. The day i was shooting those groups i had it trip while closing the bolt. Thought i had it tight enough that it would not. Guess i was wrong or the adjustment moved after firing. I have it set as light as possible without (or so i thought) it doing that when closing the bolt hard.

[CFJunkie]

With my varmint triggers, if they get much below 2 lbs or the adjustment nut gets loose (over 2000 rounds in my experience), they tend to get finicky and lock up if the bolt is closed hard or if I put even the slightest side pressure on the safety blade.
I now put some lock-tite on the adjustment screw to keep it at 2 lbs. Haven't had any adjustments get loose since I started doing that.

The Precision Target trigger (red blade) can be adjusted down to 6 oz. It came from the factory at 10 oz.
But I found that if I shot that trigger at 10 oz. first, I would jerk the varmint triggers or if I shot the varmint triggers first, the precision trigger was just too light to shoot consistently.
Turns out that 1.2 lbs is just about right on the precision trigger so I can shoot two different rifles during the same session and not notice the difference.

I can imagine if, on any of my rifles, the blade was harder to pull than the trigger itself, I would have problems getting comfortable with it and probably couldn't be consistent.