I’m going to add a bit as some of cchgn’s assertions are incorrect. The 3-screw trigger he has is the most elaborate. Not every 3-screw has a safety bar with a set screw or a set screw in back of the trigger. The screw in the Safety Bar is there to keep it in parallel dimension with the trigger & Action above. If the screw is adjusted too loose, the safety bar will “lean” forward & the safety will not function. The screw on the back of the trigger is not an adjustment whatsoever. Again, this design does not use e-clips to hold the pins in place. Rather, the trigger pin has a depression in the middle. The set screw is in place to hold the trigger pin in the center. It should be adjusted the screw tip is in the depression of the pin, but not bottomed out on the pin, otherwise it will lock the pin from turning in the bracket. As the screw is a tighter fit in the trigger hole, not turning in the bracket causes additional rotational torque, giving the feeling of a heavier pull weight. Lastly, the overtravel screw also has no bearing on the trigger tripping accidentally. Setting it too loose simply allows the trigger to be pulled further than it should be. This adds to a “sloppy” feel. Correctly adjusted & limited overtravel give a trigger pull that “Glass Rod” like break; that feeling of the trigger just falling away. There is much more to a trigger’s pull than simply the weight a little gauge tells us. A human finger has approximately 3000 “touch” receptors or, nerve endings at the tip which send signals to our brain. All of the characteristics of the trigger including Pull Weight, Take Up, Creep, Smoothness, Break & Over-Travel, all work together to generate the .feel of what we call a “Good” trigger.