Don't use hollow points they work in my gun everything works in my gun. I have an MK3 CCI standard velocity works well Aguila standard velocity jams
Sent from my LM-X410.FGN using Tapatalk
Don't use hollow points they work in my gun everything works in my gun. I have an MK3 CCI standard velocity works well Aguila standard velocity jams
Sent from my LM-X410.FGN using Tapatalk
Hi Bolt - Welcome to the 'wonderful world of 64s' I too had that problem when I got my 64, and found lots of threads about maintenance and mods for it. Ther main solution is to 'polish' the feed ramps on both the magazine and the chamber ramp. Here is one thread : " https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...ng-First-Round " - Just don't go overboard with 'sanding' - polishing is better, if slower, in my opinion. You can also find info on Youtube . And I have several threads about mods I've done if you search under my Username.
There are 'years worth' of threads on 64s in Archives, which you can find by following the instructions the moderator sent me last year
Good luck with your 'new project' ;-) - Ed
- " ... you can still easily pull up every single thread in the Rimfire board pertaining to the Model 64 with the search function.
- Go into the rimfire board
- Click on "Search Forum" at the top right just above the list of threads (in light grey bar)
- Click on Advanced Search
- In the Advanced Search, ( under 'Search single content type' - ed ) go down to the "Additional Options" area
- In the "Search in Forums" list, make sure the "Savage and Stevens Rimfire Rifles" is highlighted
- In the "Search by Prefix" list, make sure "62/64 Series" is highlighted
- Click the "Search Now" button at the bottom of that area "
Thanks Fasteddie, looks like I'll be busy.
I contacted Savage and they replied saying that the 64 f doesn't like most hollow points, that the gun was designed to shoot 40 grain round nose ammo.
Hi Bolt223 - I also can shoot all of the hollow points I have tried. CCI-MM 36g HP; Fed 36g HP; Herter 38g HP. Have you tried 'polishing' the feed ramp on both the magazine and the magazine 'well' ?? The inside edge of the mag is the critical one - you want to 'increase' slightly the angle of the bullet insertion. You can see this edge 'polishing' below. This mag has been thru a lot of changes and still works very well. hundreds of rounds thru it, too. The JB weld on the side helps hold the mag in at a proper angle, too. Another thing that may be causing your problem is the back 'ears' (sides) of the mags can become worn (not enough 'drag' on the back of the shell) OR bent 'in' too far. The mags being some sort of 'pot metal' makes them susceptible to lots of wear OR bending. I have a thread about these problems - https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum....php?t=1139263
Hope some of this helps you. Savage tells everyone that HPs don't work well, but I have 3 brand new mags that feed them perfectly !!
Ed
Hi river251 - The first thing to try is to 'polish' the feed ramps of both the magazine and the chamber (as stated in that thread - Post #5). I also have a post with details on magazine 'fixes', since the 'pot metal' mags wear and also can get 'bent' to be too tight to allow proper feed. ( https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...t-and-accuracy ) It's a fine balance to reach, but my post gives measurements of both my 'old mags' and some brand new ones for comparison. ( I have 3-old and 3-new ) After adjusting the old ones to the 'new' specs, they work just fine. Only one gives probs, since I cut ONE loop (early on)of the spring, to allow easier loading. That isn't a good idea
I have a few other posts regarding mods and 'fixes' if you care to look them up, too. There's a lot that can be done for NO COST, just time and thought.
Ed
Fasteddie01,
I was looking at my rifle with the Herter's target hollow point ammo that I have. I put five rounds in the mag and as I cycled them in the gun I pushed the bottom back of the mag forward to see if it changed the angle of the mag feed ramp. It did. It caused the rounds to bounce up to the top of the chamber missing the barrel. So I can get the two extremes with the rounds, jammed against the bottom of the barrel just above the mag well ramp and all the way to the top of the chamber. So now I have to work on the mag and the mag well ramp to get the angle just right.
I ordered a new magazine for it. I am going to cycle some hollow point rounds through it first. If they don't jam I will use it for the hollow point rounds and the original magazine for the round nose. If it also jams I will work on the original mag until I get it to shoot hollow points.
The Herter's targets I have tried almost work. I think it will take a little bet of tweaking to get them to work.
By the way, what do you use to polish the mag, super fine sand paper, steel wool?
Thanks to you guys for alerting me to this. I did a lot of research and found lots of folks with the same problems. My 64 was on the way to my local Sportsman's, but I cancelled it and ordered a 10/22. Thanks.
Hi River - Once the mags are 'fixed' you have a rifle that is as accurate 9 if not better) than the 10/22, for half the price.
Bolt, I use 1000g wet/dry to polish the mags. I also used it on all the internal parts that have any friction - sear, hammer interface, bolt faces (all 4), inside of the receiver (often rough spots from milling). Placing the paper on a hard surface like metal or glass will give you support for a flat polishing. Then use a few drops of light oil and go
for the sear release I just 'broke' the edge to allow it to 'slip' easier, and polished all the sides just for cleanliness :
Also, I 'opened' the bottom metal and mag well to make the mags go in easier - a bit of filing then polish, too.
I got the spring Kit from MCarbo (about $15CDN), Then, I replaced the trigger return spring with 'part' of one from a clic-pen. The trigger is under 3# now.
All of these mods are suggested with the usual 'Safety Caveat' in that I am not a certified gunsmith. These work safely for me, some for over 3 years and several hundred rounds.
Also, I don't know if you're aware of this but there is often a problem 'special' to 22s - carbon ring in the chamber. From what many have determined it is due to un-burnt lube and powder build-up at the mouth of the cartridge. This often will cause the first 'cold shot' to be deflected by the 'crust' of this 'ring', which is partly self-correcting after subsequent shots. The 'ring' softens from heat of firing, but will re-harden after a short time (some feel 10-15 minutes). Then the problem re-asserts itself. It seems that the 'ring' is difficult to remove with most cleaners, even 'named' Carbon Cleaners. I have ordered a product that is 'said' to dissolve the ring , and will advise when I get some and test it. Assiduous brushing of the ring can remove it, but will eventually damage the chamber and throat, so is not recommended.
I don't know if this is a critical issue for the casual shooter, but if you're trying to get MOA ( 1/2" at 50) this treatment can't hurt ( except your wallet). The product that was recommended is BoreTech C4 and costs over $40 cdn for 16 oz. so I'll let you know how it works soon. ( https://www.amazon.ca/Bore-Tech-BTCC...473365&sr=8-42 )
ed
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