The surface finish of the lugs offers little bearing on Bolt Lift. It’s made increasingly worse, due in part, to the timing not properly synced of the Action/Bolt Head Lugs in front & the Camming Lugs in the rear of the Bolt Handle/Rear Baffle, aiding Primary Extraction. The relationship of function among the Trigger/Sear system, Bolt Release & Firing Pin spring account for some of the excessive Bolt Lift as well.
When you mention the Thrust bearing type lift kit, if you have the adjustable style Firing Pin assembly, I recommend the style using a single steel or ceramic bearing ball on a hardened disk. It’s all about Coefficient of Friction. I this case,
less is
more. No need to overthink anything. Or try to reinvent. All the tricks are readily available on bringing bolt lift to within very acceptable limits. You are correct to pay attention to the Bolt. And yes, a T&T job may be beneficial. We have mixed reports: Some claiming complete curing of their harsh bolt lift & now having a quite Action. Some who claim it was a complete waste of money, and their Action feeling identical to how it was before sending for the T&T. It seems to me that yes, some 110’s may benefit from this, if in fact, the heavy bolt lift is because their 110’s front/rear Lugs are very far out of sync! Other 110’s aren’t always terrible to begin with. And having a T&T performed isn’t going to be Earth shattering if any discernible difference. It’s straightforward on how to check the timing on your own, before choosing to spend the money. Video below illustrating checking Timing on a Rem 700. The Savage 110 is quite similar. This can felt especially when you have a bare Action & Bolt assembly. Timing can be both visually seen & felt by the hand like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szy4HBg3q80
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