Do Headspace Gauge brands matter

[mnbogboy2]

I guess it depends on how much a guy cares about how his gun turns out.
I run .0015 headspace on my bolt 223. and I carefully check and reset until that is what I have. When I resize I hold my brass to .001 headspace.

How do you measure that close? I mean how do you set your headspace that close without using shims ? Do you have an in between gauge? Could a guy turn a new one on the lathe and then just "snug" it up?
I've done a hundred or so savage barrels and I still only use a go gauge & scotch tape & feel. Recently I headspace my 5 different 6.5 Creeds as close as I could get them by "feel" so I could use the same reloading die setting. Couldn't do it, one was .0005 off.

[gbflyer]

How do you measure that close? I mean how do you set your headspace that close without using shims ? Do you have an in between gauge? Could a guy turn a new one on the lathe and then just "snug" it up?
I've done a hundred or so savage barrels and I still only use a go gauge & scotch tape & feel. Recently I headspace my 5 different 6.5 Creeds as close as I could get them by "feel" so I could use the same reloading die setting. Couldn't do it, one was .0005 off.

Not sure how he does it. There is a Forster set that comes in .001 increments. The difference between go and no is .006 in his .223 I believe. I personally try for the middle but I have a few that are on the loose end of the spectrum for use in places with things that bite back. Honestly I think the loose ones are more accurate.

I wish I could set brass up to resize to within a half a thou of headspace consistently and measure it accurately. A little too much lube, a speck of crud, etc., and I’m out.

[mnbogboy2]

Thanks gb,
I was aware of those, but testing the poster's claim. Holding his tolerances on brass is easy with good control of annealing, lube & sizing technique. But the average guy doing only one common caliber is not probably going to achieve those results because of differences in brass and technique.
More power to him if he does and hoping he could share this with others.
Wasn't trying to offend anyone.

[azguy]

Thanks gb,
I was aware of those, but testing the poster's claim. Holding his tolerances on brass is easy with good control of annealing, lube & sizing technique. But the average guy doing only one common caliber is not probably going to achieve those results because of differences in brass and technique.
More power to him if he does and hoping he could share this with others.
Wasn't trying to offend anyone.

Holding close tolerances on brass is just a matter of spending the time. Also having good accurate equiptment. I always use the same brand of brass. I have a luxuary most do not have TIME. I also spent a life time as an engineer and tool maker. Setting the headspace on my guns I have a good feel, I fire 5 new rounds and record my readings. If I am not happy I do it over.
Probably I was to harsh in my statement, What ever works for you. My thoughts on teaching to work on their gun is teach the proper method and if he wants to shortcut let him thank that out on his own, after all we do not know what his skill level is.

[mnbogboy2]

Thanks azguy for clarification and adjusting MY attitude.
We are all in this together and transferring our experience to the youngsters and newcomers is most important.
Personally, I only use go gauges, tape and feel. I actually have a no go gauge or two but have never used them.
However, a novice could get that extra bit of self-assurance using one on his first and early barrel installs.
It would always be best to learn while in the presence of experience but for some that is not always possible.

There was actually no "crude" advice given but as I feel now my comment was rude and I apologize.

Your method of taking your time to get it right is definitely my method. I will tighten & loosen that barrel nut 5 times if that what it takes to get the "feel" I want on the go gauge. After a while it gets easy and seems routine, but to someone who's never done it, they can easily become overwhelmed or discouraged.

Hoping that the OP learns the process and reads as much as possible from this forum and others and tackles his first barrel with confidence. There are even a few videos out there describing the process.

Randy

[Robinhood]

I didn't read all of the post on this thread, so I appoligize in advance if I touch on issues that are resolved.

It is awesome that you are looking to become a Savagesmith. Gunsmithing is quiet different and much more advanced than adjusting a trigger or swapping a barrel on most Savage rifles.

A go gauge is all that is needed. Remove the firing pin for a better feel and to protect the tip in case of a accidental release of the sear.
For a no go, a shim in the bolt face made from a aluminum can can be cut by scissors and a relief cutout for the ejector works well for me.

Index marks with a marker and a scale on the barrel and recoil lug and action before tightening will tell you if your action and barrel have maintained their position or have rotated during the tightening process. A small amount of rotation changes the headspace significantly. The marks are removed with alcohol.

While your firing pin is out, it is a good time to test your ammo in your chamber.

Good debate often refines all of us to be better and get new ideas. You can learn a lot even from an idiot.

[wbm]

You can learn a lot even from an idiot.

While I do agree with you on a philosophical level, I think AOC and Omar may be exceptions.