weaver scope on axis?

[Dave Hoback]

While I don't disagree that the Bushnell is a better option, I'm not sure what you're saying with your statement "Vibratite has nothing to do with scope longevity". Are you saying that vibratite and loctite don't do anything beneficial if all the torques are set properly? Cause if you are, I know some people that would disagree. Vibratite and loctite are intended to do the same thing - keep stuff from moving when subjected to vibration - just that the Vibratite coating is removable and reusable without recoating screw threads, in case you didn't know. If you think torqueing the bases and rings are gonna keep them from ever moving again, you're nuts. High end bases and rings, maybe, the cheap stuff, no.

Geez man, one long Saturday out at the range and you'll see and hear guys dinking with their scopes and bases, talking about having to send them back, upgrading to a $1,000 piece of glass, yada, yada. It's always the same. Hardly any of them ever put any kind of locker on the screws, and sadly many of them don't own a torque wrench, but they all sure know what they're doing. Simple stuff.

And yeah, I know a little bit too ...

The last part there wasn’t meant in response to your post Full Chisel. You’re reading into what I said too deep. I am a proponent of using lock tight & or Vibratite(which I do use). My only point was simply expounding on thread locking compound being just that. Many people don’t use them and do not have trouble with loosening bolts/screws & such. That’s all No argument was intended.

[prdatr]

I'm a big proponent of blue loctite on rings and bases and also have the Wheeler Wrench. I have a habit of letting them sit for 24 hours before shooting the gun. I put a set of Talley lightweight rings and bases on an Axis Compact in 243 and put a Zeiss Terra scope I picked up on clearance about a year before I bought the Axis.
While not on par with the Trijicon and Swarovski scopes I have it is fine for hunting varmints. The most recent scope I bought is a Riton that I put on an AR-10 with a Warne MSR mount. I put loctite on it but haven't gotten around to shoot it yet since I took the ACOG off. The whole setup is probably pushing over nine pounds and is pretty solid and torqueing everything was probably enough I'd rather not have stuff get loose.

[Full Chisel]

The last part there wasn’t meant in response to your post Full Chisel. You’re reading into what I said too deep. I am a proponent of using lock tight & or Vibratite(which I do use). My only point was simply expounding on thread locking compound being just that. Many people don’t use them and do not have trouble with loosening bolts/screws & such. That’s all No argument was intended.

Understood.

But I highly encourage anyone who thinks loctite as only a threadlocker to actually go look into it further. It's more than that. It has actual anti-vibe properties by getting itself between the metal surfaces and can decouple two mating surfaces enough from one another enough to attenuate (to some degree) some of the higher frequency vibrations, which are you real destructive forces. Vibratite is even better at doing this. What's never talked about is every time you fire that rifle, you are basically hitting the "ON" button to an ultrasonic cleaner. Everyone only talks about the recoil.

[Dave Hoback]

That’s what I use the Vibra-Tite for. The GREEN, 567- High Temp retaining compound! I use it on my AR15 builds, between the Barrel Extension & Upper Receiver tenon. It takes up that .001”-.002” space in mine, and can help with severe fitting errors where the difference is .006”+.


Locktite has some of the same products. It’s all by the number used. Now I wouldn’t use Locktite 242/272 or Vibra-Tite 122,131 or even the Purple 250 for this job, as THEY are all thread locker compounds. Although there are people who do, I prefer using the correct compound for the job.

[wbm]

Talley doesn't recommend thread locker on their integral base/rings and I quit using it years ago without issue. The proper torque is the key.

+1

[Full Chisel]

The red Vibratite VC-3 is what I recommended in the first post. It was made just for this kind of stuff.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/industries/firearms/

[Dave Hoback]

Well, I don’t see how isolating the screws does anything. Talking about small screws like 6-40, 6-48 or 8-40 screws... tiny things. The point of the screws is to keep the scope from moving. Screw’s threads are typically with around 3% of the threads in the hole. So on 6-40,6-48 & 8-40 the depth of the thread is what, between .020”-.030”? Take that 3% we are left with .0006”-.0009”. Let that sink in a bit. That number is Ten-THOUSANDTHS of an inch! How is a .0009” film of anything going to “isolate” and soak up ANY kind of vibrations, as they claim. I believe it’s doing exactly what it should... preventing screws from loosening or taking up thousandths of an inch spaces between surfaces for a higher precision fit in parts.

As for the scope, I simply stated that Bushnell has a better product, with a better warranty. Which is true. An Axis with a Weaver vs Bushnell scope are around the same price. Yes, I’m absolutely choosing the one with the Bushnell. Has nothing to do brand loyalty or this or that member having “great performance” from their Weaver scopes. I am speaking fact. Looking at the warranties is quite easy. Black & white online. Bushnell owns Weaver. They have more money, & a much much larger line of rifle optics. From very inexpensive to mid level up to Japanese built higher end Glass. Weaver can not claim the same.

[boomer92266]

Thanks everyone, he bought the gun but decided to trade it because of the scope not getting good reviews and no other options were available at the time. As everyone knows I had an Axis recoil pad problem, he offered to trade with me and I said ok, new gun for used seemed ok with me. I made a post on here about setting my Weaver scope then finding out a couple screws were loose on the rings that clamp the scope, I reshot and its still set and I made sure they are torqued good. However it still makes me think, I am on a fixed income so I couldn't go over $100 for a scope and less would be easier. I had a Simmons 8 point on my other Axis. What would be the best scope at $100 or less?, just in case I need to replace the weaver, thanks for any help.

[charlie b]

I'd just look around at various forum classifieds, maybe even post a WTB (want to buy) for an inexpensive scope. You might get lucky. When I bought my new scope I gave my package scope to a guy on the cast boolit forum. He was in your kind of situation and I had the scope sitting in a drawer. Win-win.

Also watch the sale ads.