Hobo oil.
Contact: Group Therapy on Accurate Shooter
Hobo oil.
Contact: Group Therapy on Accurate Shooter
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
What about spraying the bolt with graphite? It doesn't attract dirt and dust like grease, although I would think the lugs should be greased very lightly. I use John Deere Polyurea grease on the lugs but genuine CaseIH 251H EP is always preferred. I would think graphite would make for a smooth working bolt.
Using Hornady One-Shot as well for cleaning, light lubing, and corrosion protection.
LP (Lube Protect) for oil.
Super Lube light synthetic grease on sliding contact areas.
Places you should not put any lube: trigger assy, chamber, bore, sear assy, firing pin assy, ammo. Mineral oil is the base of 99.9% of all lubes, so just get mineral oil, it's alot cheaper.
IMO, I don't trust anything that claims to clean, lube and protect all in one. I suspect that it doesn't do any of them very well. To me, the issue isn't what lube (most all attract dust and dirt and grime, grease more than oil, and then dries out), but how much to put on. I take a flannel cloth and infuse it (not dripping saturated) with mineral oil and keep it in a gallon baggie and simply, lightly wipe down everything that I didn't mention up there and then wipe it off with a clean, lint free cloth (plenty enough stays on it). Remember, it's not a car engine (or even an AR or semi SG or pistol) it's a bolt action rifle, no rapid fire, it doesn't get NEAR as much friction as folks think. Gun makers harden the crap out of their parts, especially those that rub against each other. Anyway, we're letting them cool off between shots, too, right? YMMV
Stevens 110E Series K #Gunblue490 Semper Fi
My feelings exactly!!!
I SUSPECT the military has adopted CLP as a "good enough" product to be used in the field, so that soldiers are not having to carry a separate cleaner, lubricant and preserver in their field packs... Lord knows they are weighed down with enough equipment already!!!.
However, for us civilians who don't get deployed, its probably best to just employ a good cleaner, a good lubricant, and then a good preserver.
I still lean toward the "automotive class" of chemicals for their quality in relation to their cost and quantity. Ed's Red for example is a lot cheaper per gallon than CLP... and you can pick up the ingredients at Walmart or Home Depot... in other words, just about anywhere!
Bolt or lithium grease on the locking lugs, primary extraction cam and cocking ramp. Ronson lighter fluid on the triggers and CLP on everything else.
Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.
I have been having good results with MicroLubrol - a 100% Silicone oil.
I put a few drops on the bolt head lugs and wipe with a cotton rag. Just a very light coating.
The rest of the metal gets an occasional wipe down with Birchwood Casey Sheath (was formerly Barricade) that is a protectant oil.
I use liquids - not sprays.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
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