Converting pre-66 110's to modern triggers

[Robinhood]

You are still going to need the pre-accutrigger safety, which is tough enough to get, but the the part that is hard to find is the detent spring that screws to the safety. You might get lucky and find one as an assembly, that's how they were sold back in the day.

Yep. It will look like this assembled. It is what the little "dumbell" shaped pin slides into when changing safety positions.

[Newtosavage]

Yep. It will look like this assembled. It is what the little "dumbell" shaped pin slides into when changing safety positions.

That's what I have coming. That whole assembly. Now I just need a post-66 sear, and they are proving very hard to find.

[mnbogboy2]

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ger-Adjustment

The screw in the end of the trigger serves 2 purposes. One is to hold the detent ball which holds the pivot pin in. The head of the screw controls the actual sear engagement. With the screw turned all the way in the sear engagement is the smallest. If this screw is backed out very much then the trigger will feel "creepy". Thats as much as i remember without actual tearing into one again. If it were me i would turn it all the way in before making the other adjustments.

Hopefully you can find all the parts for the more "modern" trigger.

[Newtosavage]

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ger-Adjustment

The screw in the end of the trigger serves 2 purposes. One is to hold the detent ball which holds the pivot pin in. The head of the screw controls the actual sear engagement. With the screw turned all the way in the sear engagement is the smallest. If this screw is backed out very much then the trigger will feel "creepy". Thats as much as i remember without actual tearing into one again. If it were me i would turn it all the way in before making the other adjustments.

Hopefully you can find all the parts for the more "modern" trigger.

Funny you wrote this. As you were writing this, I decided to pull the gun apart once again (hopefully the zero will hold, again) and back out that sear engagement screw you're talking about. I wanted the peace of mind that there was a little more "meat" holding that sear than I had when it was screwed all the way in. I backed it out about 3/4 turn. That gave me another 8 oz. of trigger pull. So it went from 2 lbs. 14 (ish) oz. to 3 lbs. 8 (ish) oz. That's good. This is a hunting rifle and I don't mind a 3 1/2 lb. trigger, especially since it doesn't have the safety blade of the Accutrigger.

In the past when I've done this (backed that screw out) the pull was smooth for the first 5-10 then I could tell the pull weight increased gradually. Hopefully it doesn't do that again.

In the meantime, I'll keep accumulating the parts I need to replace the whole assembly with a Timney or Rifle Basix or the like.

I really do appreciate everyone's help on this. You guys are great.

[Newtosavage]

BTW, after really paying attention, it's not creeping at all. I looked very, very closely, and there is zero creep before it fires.

I think what's throwing me is the overtravel. It can only be adjusted so much, and it has more overtravel than either of my Accutriggers have. They seem more "crisp" but that's because they feel lighter and have less overtravel.

On the pre-66 triggers, if you reduce the overtravel by backing that screw out on the trigger, you can only go so far before you interfere with the safety. I have it as short as I can get it, with everything still functioning properly.

At this point, I'm just being a whiner because this trigger is actually pretty good if I have to be honest. I'm just a little spoiled by my newest Accutriggers. :D