the safety is a problem.
the safety is a problem.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Can you elaborate? I understand the original safety would have to be replaced, but it looks like the post '66 safety, or one of the Jard 3-position safeties, would drop right in.Originally Posted by Robinhood
Well, you forced me to look at parts and research. What does your safety bar look like?
I think the RB SavII will work.
You will need the pre accutrigger safety and (dumbell) pin.
I may let the guru answer this one as I really don't remember much about the older models. When parts got obsolete i sold and moved on.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
All the parts including safety & sear will fit but the side of the receiver will require a little milling to clear the bolt release lever on the sear. (Bending it will most likely break it "dont ask"��).
I believe the Jard comes with its own sear but assume it is like the newer Savage.
There was a post on here a few months ago where it was done by a member. A search for "Jard" should find it.
Edit: this is the post i was talking about
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...-trigger-group
This is the sear I have now:
Are you telling me that if I replaced it with the more modern sear like this one, I'd have to mill the receiver?
I'm not opposed to going with the full Jard (safety and trigger/sear combo) setup, but they only go up to 18 oz. and this is a hunting rifle. I'd like to keep it between 3 and 4 lbs. if I can.
My guess is that the Timney or Rifle Basix Sav-1 would be a better fit for you (and a lot cheaper than the Jard).This is the sear I have now:
Are you telling me that if I replaced it with the more modern sear like this one, I'd have to mill the receiver?
I'm not opposed to going with the full Jard (safety and trigger/sear combo) setup, but they only go up to 18 oz. and this is a hunting rifle. I'd like to keep it between 3 and 4 lbs. if I can.
You will need a trigger hanger in addition to the newer style sear and safety bar.
As far as the "milling" the guy in the post i linked actually used a die grinder to make clearance on the side of the receiver. As i mentioned i tried to bend one once and broke it (the heat treating is done after it is formed). But i have heard of others having success bending it, but they may have heated it.
Its been a while since ive done this.
I gave the last one i had to a grandaughter and cleaned up and reworked the pre-1966 trigger. It breaks at just under 3#. She has killed 3 or whitetails & a bear with it!
Okay, thanks. I just realized yesterday the hangar is different from the pre-66's to the post-66's, so you are correct about that. I think a Timney or Rifle Basix would look appropriate in that old gun. I don't want to detract from the vintage appearance, but I also want to use it and I can't stand mushy, inconsistent triggers, not to mention unsafe ones. Right now it breaks at 2 lbs. 12-14 oz. pretty reliably, but it just feels "mushy" and a few times it wouldn't reset when I was chambering a round. That worries me, maybe more than it should. But the last thing I want to be worried about on a rifle is the trigger.
Thanks. My safety bar is the "tall" one, but I think the pre-accutrigger safety will fit right in it's place.
Here's what I have:
But I think this later safety should fit right in it's place, opening up the opportunity for modern replacement triggers.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks