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  1. #1
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    As Texas10 said the retaining pin removes easy if you compress the ejector pin first. I use common nuts on all three sizes of bolt heads. Knock the corners off the nuts until they fit easily up to the bolt face. Squeeze the ejector an spring in a vise. Drive the pin out from the side opposite of the spotface.
    My punch is turned down to .059/.060.

    Shown in pictures: 10-24 nut for small rifle bolthead, 1/4-20 nut for std "308" head, & 5/16-18 nut for magnum head.

    Learned this lesson long ago and ended up drilling out a retaining pin.
    For what it's worth I use the same method on assembled bolts including Remington. I have the correct size "flat head" screw screwed in the side of my work bench. I use my stomach to compress the ejector, leaving both hands free for the punch & hammer.

  2. #2
    Basic Member 000Robert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mnbogboy2 View Post
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    As Texas10 said the retaining pin removes easy if you compress the ejector pin first. I use common nuts on all three sizes of bolt heads. Knock the corners off the nuts until they fit easily up to the bolt face. Squeeze the ejector an spring in a vise. Drive the pin out from the side opposite of the spotface.
    My punch is turned down to .059/.060.

    Shown in pictures: 10-24 nut for small rifle bolthead, 1/4-20 nut for std "308" head, & 5/16-18 nut for magnum head.

    Learned this lesson long ago and ended up drilling out a retaining pin.
    For what it's worth I use the same method on assembled bolts including Remington. I have the correct size "flat head" screw screwed in the side of my work bench. I use my stomach to compress the ejector, leaving both hands free for the punch & hammer.
    My Starrett 1/16" punch measures 0.0595.
    The more corrupt the state, the more laws.-Tacitus

  3. #3
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    I believe in removing any components that affect "feel"/pressure closing the bolt.
    This includes the spring-loaded ejector.

  4. #4
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    I have never removed the ejector in order to head space a barrel on any bolt action rifle,Factory or Custom action. There's no need in doing it,once the Go/No Go gauge is in the chamber and the barrel is screwed down,you can feel when the head space gauge bottoms out against the bolt head.

  5. #5
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    So I ended up breaking the retaining pin and that was while compressing the plunger. I tried 2 separate brands of 1/16 punches. Both would not go in the hole. I turned the punches down slightly but i ended up breaking one off in the bolt head. I finally got it removed. I have a feeling that this is not normal. I have never had any AR Roll pins ever give me this much trouble.So now I'm waiting for a new retainer to arrive.

  6. #6
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    Definitely yours wasn't normal. We're you able to salvage the ejector & it's spring? The key was to have it compressed before your first try. When reassembling have the ejector compressed slightly and use a flashlight to make sure you can see "daylight" through the whole before driving the pin in. Do not clamp the ejector tight to allow it to rotate a little while the pin is going by the "slotted" area.
    Good luck.

  7. #7
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    Yeah I was able to salvage the rest of the parts. The barrel nut installation was smooth with no issues.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txhillbilly View Post
    I have never removed the ejector in order to head space a barrel on any bolt action rifle,Factory or Custom action. There's no need in doing it,once the Go/No Go gauge is in the chamber and the barrel is screwed down,you can feel when the head space gauge bottoms out against the bolt head.
    If you think difference in resistance/pressure can't affect a measurement by at least a thou or two-even steel on steel- you're mistaken.

  9. #9
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    What measurement is being effected? It is a go no go.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  10. #10
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    Headspace.

    I set headspace so that I feel very slight resistance on bolt close. Handle will not drop by gravity- but with very light pressure.

    Can't feel that with resistance from an ejector. Makes no difference to me whether it's a Savage where the barrel's being screwed in, or an M700 based on chamber depth.
    I remove ejectors from every bolt, every time, all the time. I want to know when there is contact, not whether I can force the bolt closed; there is a difference.

    Someone else feels that's unnecessary, go for it.

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