?? changing 12FV calibers ?? , 308 12fv accuracy?

[celltech]

Lets say, we had a factory stock .223 12FV, would that bolt face be smaller, and would be limited to the smaller dia. calibers that you listed?

I suggest you google bolt face diameters and do a little research. The .223 uses a .384" and is *not* compatible with any of the above listed rounds. But with a Savage you can easily swap bolt heads and barrels with the same action and create almost whatever you want.

How do you plan on threading the barrel for a brake? And yeah...you have lots of room to practice. I cut down my .308 to 18" with a hacksaw and crowned it with a shell deburring tool...still shoots 1/2" groups and lost a lot of weight in the process.

[Shooter0302]

. I think I might be shy of taking the stock off on the 6.5 , as soon as we pick it up, after reading about how critical all the torques are. Not sure what else to do/think about that though
The torque values listed on this forum are just a guide, I tried the setting listed on my 110 Tactical and the trigger was locked / jammed . The only way to get it correct is to get a in/lb torque wrench/driver, take about 100 rounds (all loaded the same or from the same lot # ) if you buy your ammo and shoot groups changing the two action screw values,ie; more front,more back, less front more back. OR if you only shoot no further that 300 yds. go with about 35 in/lb.

[ice tea]

. I think I might be shy of taking the stock off on the 6.5 , as soon as we pick it up, after reading about how critical all the torques are. Not sure what else to do/think about that though
The torque values listed on this forum are just a guide, I tried the setting listed on my 110 Tactical and the trigger was locked / jammed . The only way to get it correct is to get a in/lb torque wrench/driver, take about 100 rounds (all loaded the same or from the same lot # ) if you buy your ammo and shoot groups changing the two action screw values,ie; more front,more back, less front more back. OR if you only shoot no further that 300 yds. go with about 35 in/lb.

I kinda figured it was something like that. One of the problems is, I dont want to fork out more $ than what fixed power SWFA ss scopes cost, as that what is planned for these rifles. And the 10-16 power in moa, are outa stock. So these rifles might have to sit, till I can get scopes for them, unless i take a scope off another gun. Thanks for the explanation

[jkv45]

I kinda figured it was something like that. One of the problems is, I dont want to fork out more $ than what fixed power SWFA ss scopes cost, as that what is planned for these rifles. And the 10-16 power in moa, are outa stock. So these rifles might have to sit, till I can get scopes for them, unless i take a scope off another gun. Thanks for the explanation

Ya, I'm a fan as well -

[ice tea]

I suggest you google bolt face diameters and do a little research. The .223 uses a .384" and is *not* compatible with any of the above listed rounds. But with a Savage you can easily swap bolt heads and barrels with the same action and create almost whatever you want.

How do you plan on threading the barrel for a brake? And yeah...you have lots of room to practice. I cut down my .308 to 18" with a hacksaw and crowned it with a shell deburring tool...still shoots 1/2" groups and lost a lot of weight in the process.

Thanks, yea, I shoulda googled it, theres charts by a couple people that popped up right away, showing which calibers use the same bolt. I was pressed for time, that night, and the sale ended the next night, so I just asked the question, before trying myself. I had no idea, so many different calibers ass end of the casing was the same dia., once I saw those charts.

I have a hard time w/ understanding those shorter barrels, like the 18", you hacksawed. Ive seen on savage website target rifles w/ 29" barrels. Then precision rifles w/ like 18 - 20" . I think to myself, well, what the diff b/t precision and target. I mean, I understand a target rifle having a long barrel and it giving higher velocity to a certain point . I get a varmint rifle having a slightly shorter barrel. And I understand a hunting rifle being slightly thinner and shorter also, and understand that acuracy not neccesarily needed is sacrificed for hunting also. But I dont get, how precision rifle is shortest yet.

I like your barrel shortening story, crude the process, but you got good end results. i've seen guys get ok results on battlefield type rifles, using an annular cutter w/ a pilot in muzzles end, to get the major dia for there die.
I did machining in a machine shop in most of the 90s till the mid aughts. I did mostly obsolete/retired tractor parts, and what little welding the shop did. I still have my machinist chess, w/ my mics, thread wires, indicators, etc., but I'm sure I'm rusty, as its been over a decade. So, I'll eventually work a deal w/ someone/shop, to come in and use there lathe to thread a barrel and whatever else is on my list. I've done that a couple times since I left the shop. One, threading project I did since, was my hydra-booster on my old chevy dually, it was ready to fly off the firewall of my truck, which then I'd lose my brakes. The nut was jumping the worn threads. I chucked up the whole hydra-boost in a 4 jaw chuck, and cut it for undersize threads. I have a pick of it finished, still in the chuck. thanks for the help