Trigger - I have two of the Jard brand triggers and love them. These triggers come with a difference sear/bolt release that changes the geometry that helps quite a bit. VERY smooth trigger...cost is $85.
Caliber - I am going to offer advice on caliber. Unfortunately, there is not a plethora of 277 diameter bullets available to choose from. At the minimum, I would recommend a 284/7mm or 30 caliber. The bullet selection quadrupled if the 284 selected. ...and 100x for the 30 caliber.
Go heavy for caliber - 284/7mm - 162 to 175 grain. 30 caliber - 180's are ok, 208's are a LOT better. Buy the barrel that will support shooting the highest BC and SD of the bullet in the caliber that you plan to build.
If you want to reach out past 1200 yards, you have to graduate to a 275 to 300 gr 338 bullet. 300 gr reach to 2K yards with ease in a properly set up 338 RUM or 338 Edge chamber.
Rings/bases....
I prefer two piece picatinny/weaver style on long actions. Opens up the top of the action when loading or removing spent cases/loaded rounds. Otherwise, your fingers just don't fit with a one piece rail. I prefer the Burris 2 piece bases - they are steel. Bed the bases or rail to your action with Devcon/etc....it is the details that count.
I DO like one piece rails though...and would not turn one down. EGW makes an excellent product...there are several at my house.
20 MOA - raises the rear of the rail or rear scope base 20 moa. This allows your scope to be dialed in at 100 yards at the bottom of the scope's internal adjustment range....allowing you to be able to utilize more of the internal adjustment of your scope to dial up to long yardage. Otherwise, you will run out of scope adjustment before being able to dial up to the longer yardages.
I almost exclusively run Burris Signature Zee rings. For nothing else, the plastic inserts don't mark up your scope tube. I would not turn down Leupold Mark 4 rings or Burris Tactical - both are heavy rings designed for heavy duty use and high recoil.
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