Headspacing With or Without extractor/ejector?

[justinp61]

The first 260 I rebarreled I only bought a go gauge and use two layers of shipping tape for the no go, about .0035" IIRC. When I did the last one, I bought the matching Forster no go gauge. After I was finished, I checked the first rifle with the no go gauge and the bolt wouldn't close on it.

I also did a 22-250 last summer and used Manson gauges, both have a slot milled in them for the ejector, pretty good idea IMO. The bottom line is both methods will work fine if you pay attention. Get sloppy and you'll have poor results.

[Dave Hoback]

Well said Justin. Or, as was in the case of the OP’s, a part might just be out of spec, like the Ejector sitting proud in his rifles bolt head.

[gguinn]

You sure the extractor snapped over the rim of the go-gauge?

If would not initially, then got is was able to after filing the ejector face slightly and lubricating the ejector bevel

[gguinn]

Thinking that as well. Or, did you check it WITHOUT those parts, then FINISH torquing? Did you check again AFTER torquing, or not again until everything was in. If so, you could have spun the barrel in a bit more with torquing.

He led before and after and was very careful to avoid spinning lug and action. Solution is mentioned above.

[wbm]

I have never removed the Ejector or the Extractor from any bolt head when setting the head space on any barrel. I've probably swapped out over two dozen barrel's over the years, and have never had a single issue with the head space not being perfect every time.

+1

[Dave Hoback]

I guess it’s best we remember there is no “better” way of doing each job. There is only the way each of chooses. Some of us do it BOTH ways depending on our mood even. As long as the same outcome is reached, the path getting there is moot.

[wbm]

_.