I have a few, PM me.
Looking for a couple of smooth barrel nuts for standard shank barrel (1.055). Can’t find any.
I have a few, PM me.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
i HAVE A COUPLE BUT THEY HAVE PIPE WRENCH MARKS ON THEM.
why would you want a smooth one if they make notched ones...assuming they do for replacements as the smooth ones get damaged.
Thanks all... Found some at Brownells.
Cool man, glad it worked out for you. The one I have has pipe wrench marks on it and is getting ready to go in the trash.
I've never removed a smooth barrel nut. I thought the special wrench was suppose to allow removal and re-install without marring the nut? I'm guessing not so much?
I tried to use wrench remove the smooth barrel nut On my rifle last week and the wrench would not get any where close to tight on the nut. However, a little heat and a pipe wrench worked nicely.
2 questions;
A. How do you intend to get the round nut tight ?
B. Is the round nut for "looking kool" as opposed to the 8 sided nut ?
Never gonna happen with a factory barrel.
First Savage I tried with a smooth nut, deformed the wrench designed for it and stripped the nut trying to get enough torque for it to not slip (even with rosin).
Most, take a pipe wrench to the factory nut- and replace with a trued, aftermarket nut.
The barrel shoulder- or the face of the nut, in the case of variable shoulder barrels- is a critical bearing surface aligning the center of the bore to the receiver, and must be precisely at 90 degrees to the threads for best accuracy. Given the few dollars involved, it's a no-brainer to use a precision nut when re-barreling.
My nut (ha ha), is still on the factory barrel. i grabbed the nut with a pipe wrench and the barrel came out of the receiver. i agree, no way a factory smooth nut is coming off with a smooth nut wrench. I think I did see a fancy expensive smooth nut wrench once. But if memory serves, it cost about more than the pipe wrench in my tool box and a good trued nut and lug from NSS.
Evidently you guys haven't used one of my wrenches. I've knocked hundreds loose with no marring, scratching or deformation. And they all broke loose by hand.....no hammer needed.
There is nothing wrong with factory nuts,(providing you don't wreck um getting them off) they are just as true as aftermarket.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
That wrench looks quality for sure (website photo). However, I can order an action, barrel, lug, nut, and action wrench in 5 minutes (confirmation email arrives like magic) and skip the; print the form, fill out the form, find envelope, write check, find stamp and mail. And then wonder when it will arrive at my door.
EDIT: I don't mean this disrespectfully. i'm just saying, a pipe wrench in the toolbox and a quick internet order of a nut is painless and makes the "cost" of ruining an ugly (IMO) smooth factory nut a moot point.
This hasn't been my experience even with the limited number of Savages that come into the shop.
I have (shop made) tooling to true the face of factory nuts when they're not replaced, and almost all require at least a couple thousandths to clean up. Whether that's enough to manifest at the target if it weren't done, might be arguable. But, just like facing a receiver- it's SOP for me; takes but a few minutes to do it- and I don't have to worry about whether it is, or isn't...
You've basically made my point when you said "if they're not replaced". New factory nuts are just as true as after market......if you seen how they are made,they can't be anything but square and true.
Once you tighten a nut up on a stamped distorted lug, it will take the same shape. The smooth barrel nuts are stronger, and bigger in diameter.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
They are turned on a Swiss type multi axis CNC machining center. Material is loaded from one end and finished nuts come out the other.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
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