Before you reassemble the bolt or firing pin, if you have a vice with soft jaws set the protrusion now.
Grip the firing pin lightly with the tip of the firing pin up. Grab it on the flat at the opposite end.
Start with your spring stop and lock ring (the smaller in OD of the two lock rings) and screw it down trying your bolt head to see if the pin protrudes. Work that until you get .035"-.045". Lift the locking ring up to lock it in place and loosen the jaws and rotate so the lock ring does not come out of its slots.
Drop the spring on keeping some force applied on the spring to keep the lock ring and spring stop in place.
Prepare to compress the spring. You will need a pair of side cutters or similar. Get a sacrificial piece of wood to go between the the tip of the firing pin and the table. ***Wear something for eye safety***.
Get the cocking piece (the part that extends out the rear of the Bolt) nearby and the locking ring between your fingers with the side cutters in the other hand. Carefully place the side cutter about 3/4ths up or higher from the bottom of the spring making sure that the jaws will match up to the flats on the pin. This will keep the threads from getting buggered up if you squeeze to hard.
***Keeping your face out of the line of fire*** slowly compress the spring. Making sure you line up the flat on the ring to the flat on the pin make this go easier than if you do not. As soon as the back end of the firing pin protrudes the spring enough, slide the lock ring over it and then start the threads on the cocking piece.
Screw the cocking piece down around 3/16". Slide the pin down into the bolt body. See if the hole is close to the bottom of the cocking ramp. Adjust until this is true. Remove the firing pin assembly.
Slide the cocking piece sleeve over the cocking piece and line up the holes. Slide the cocking piece pin into the holes. Push the sleeve down and rotate the sleeve until the anti rotation slots fit together. Now your sleeve is aligned correctly
Pull back on the cocking piece sleeve and remove the cocking pin and sleeve.
Go back and check your protrusion at this time. >.035" < .045".
Assemble the bolt head, wavy spring and front baffle onto the bolt with the extractor on the same side as the cocking ramp. Make sure the front baffle is oriented correctly and the spring is between the baffle and the bolt body. Install the cross pin to hold it all together. As you do this it helps to position the through hole to be in line with the axis of the firing pin. A quick look through the rear of the bolt will confirm.
Slide the firing pin in with the cocking piece hole aligned with the bottom of the ramp. Slide the cocking piece sleeve into the rear of the bolt until the round hole is aligned with the hole in the cocking piece. Insert the cocking piece pin.
Before you put the bolt assembly screw back on rock the cocking pin back and forth. It should do so with little linear movement up the ramp. If their is no clearance between this pin and the bottom of the cocking ramp your pin will bottom out and it will reduce your firing pin protrusion. It is better to have too much space than too little.
Slide your rear baffle onto the bolt, put your bolt handle on. Add a little E/P grease or other heavy lubricant to the bottom of the BAS. Make sure the cocking pin is at the bottom of the ramp. Start threading the BAS into the back of the bolt body.
After two turns stop. Push the cocking pin up the ramp to the cocked position. Continue to tighten the BAS until it is torqued, make sure you handle and baffle are in the correct position as you go.Check function and adjust as needed.
I cant be held responsible for grammatical or spelling errors. Im not much of a proof reader. I hope this helps and let me know if I missed something.
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