I recently did a review on the AT1 in the new ambidexterous thumbhole shape. I installed the heavy barreled action from a model 10PC in it. I did have to relieve the barrel channel some but it was no big deal. A half round wood rasp followed by some sandpaper made quick work of it and there is plenty of meat left in the stock. absolutely no big deal.
The majority of what had to be removed was out near the tip of the fore end. Not sure what length tube you're wanting but there's a lot of opinion online about 26" for 25-06 blah blah blah. That may "maximize" the cartridge blah blah blah but I haven't heard one complaint from a target or a deer shot with either of mine with 22" sporter(111) or 24" heavy(110FP) barrels. as far as action length and screw spacing the new system labels all rifles as 110 whether they be long or short action while the older system from the ninetys used 3 digit for long and 2 digit for short actions. the proper screw spacing for All Long Actions = 5.062" so a call may be in order.
My youngest sons first centerfire deer rifle was a 111 in 25-06 at about age 10 or 11 and he still hunts with it as a grown man. Heck I grab it myself often enough if he isn't going LOL. It's a 111 that I worked over the trigger and bedded it into a factory synthetic with JB weld and spray painted the stock. with the sporter it's apleasure to carry and shoots bugholes. I Even had a guy at the range try to trade me a beautiful Browning gold medallion in .243 for that $300 spray painted Savage after I let him shoot it. Being my sons first deer rifle there was no way I could part with it.
Just my .02 but you could do a lot worse than a sporter barrel especially for a kid. Longer tubes can be a pain to get out the window in a shoot house, to carry through the woods because they stick up so far above the shoulder when slung, and I've found heavy and long are just plain cumbersome in the field.
Good luck and enjoy your project.
BHJ
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