Yikes! Time to look for some new parts.
So I usually use a bedding kit or JB Weld no problems I have done several
with the J B weld I use car wax for release agent
well Home Depot was out of J B Weld so I bought gorilla glue two part epoxy
put car wax all over the metal
mixed epoxy bedded action waited the 10 minute set up time pulled it apart
oh wait just kidding could not pull it apparat tried and tried
made a punch out of a wood dowel no good used a brass punch no good
finally I decided that I would split the stock off ( wood stock ) so I got a wedge and proceeded to drive the wedge between the barrel and stock all of a sudden pop it popped apart now the real problem the epoxy remained on the metal and did not stick to would
took hours to clean up action now I need to get it blued
Old Smokey
Yikes! Time to look for some new parts.
I am glad you mentioned this. I always use J&B and never have issues. I have thought about the Gorilla products, but I don't think I will use any now
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[B][SIZE=3]Dennis[/SIZE][/B]
Their glue products seem to work well, I know a few guys who laminated their own stock blanks with it and its held up very well.
For the handful of guns ive bedded I just bought one of the brand name kits with a color I like or one I can add the color to.
That is a terrible situation. Crazy that it stuck to the metal with the wax on it. I would say it is probably pretty strong epoxy, just not good for bedding stocks? Were you able to salvage the stock?
Some epoxies create a fair amount of heat and can melt wax or clear shoe polish. It may have worked well if you used a different release agent. Personally I use a thinner epoxy like the Gorilla 2 part, or Devcon or a Marine epoxy for the pillars. Than I use JB weld to "bed" the action and bottom metal.
Haven't played with the Gorilla epoxies. But as a rule the longer setting (24 hour cure) epoxies set up harder and are better for bedding.
I use a Dremel burr to stuff up the stock prior and get to raw wood instead of the stock finish. For synthetic stocks rough them up as well with 60 grit sandpaper and wipe with solvent alcohol or acetone before bedding. No coincidence glues come in plastic bottles and many epoxies will peel right off some plastics even when cured.
Also, after you first squeeze the action into the stock use strips of sliced credit cards (I keep all those Junk mail cards the mailman brings) to remove as much excess as possible. And don't forget to fill the holes and gaps in the action with clay or Play-Doh first.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
I hope you did not bend anything with the wedge.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Update touched up the bluing
re- Bedded with a bedding kit and all is well I can now finish my build
Old Smokey
Sort of on topic - I have a brand new tube of Gorilla brand super glue and so far it has not worked on anything I have tried. It stays sticky forever, never curing. The opposite of your experience with too much adhesion...
Thanks for the warning
Did you try heating up the metal some, to soften the grip? That frequently works.
Sometimes a trip to the freezer will free them up.
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