Quote Originally Posted by wbm View Post
A few. I have a Savage Model 11 Light Weight Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor. The only difference between it and the Lady Hunter basically is length of pull on the and cosmetics on the walnut stock. The groups you are getting with factory ammunition are acceptable for most hunting situations. The way I see it is you are going to mess up a good stock to possibly achieve .50" difference in three shot groups. Also milling out the stock and bedding the recoil lug area before working up hand-loads is not logical to me. By doing that you are going to void your factory warranty for the "possibility" of more accuracy. Makes more sense to me to work up hand-loads first. If they achieve the results you want then you have saved yourself a lot of work. Right now you have a 6lb light weight rifle with a "pencil' contour 20" barrel in 7mm-08 and have the expectation of sub MOA performance. To achieve that, you are planning on altering the stock before working up hand loads and if that does not work you say you will "be forced" to re-barrel, re-bed, and add a new recoil lug. All this for only the possibility of sub MOA. Does not compute IMO. Good review below.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/savage_11_...ght_hunter.htm
I should have stated this is not my first rodeo. Every rifle I own is bedded (whether by me or a gunsmith). that being said I have never bedded a savage rifle. Bedding typically takes me 2 hrs prep on my remingtons. 2 hrs is MUCH easier than the time spent working up loads on a rifle. For me, I always bed my rifles before working loads, but again never bedded a savage. Yes .5in matters to me. No, warranty does not matter. if it does not shoot, I will re-barrel just like the other 2 savages I already re-barreled. Just wanted to ask advice here before moving forward.