I have been approved for one, go to the promotion site, outdoor Vista, and there is a rebate status tab. I got a "not approved" at first. Call the number and they will tell you what they need.
Russellc
I have been approved for one, go to the promotion site, outdoor Vista, and there is a rebate status tab. I got a "not approved" at first. Call the number and they will tell you what they need.
Russellc
Savage 12FV in 6.5 CM in my hands. Plan to bed the scope base tonight and mount scope tomorrow. 😎
Order status on the 6.5 CM I ordered on Sept 11 just changed from In process to shipped....WOOT!!!
General Cabela's site had changed 3 calibers to "In Stock"......Hope they bump my order....
My .308 arrived yesterday and now I have to go pick it up....yeah me! Then starts the project of cutting down the barrel and making something fun out of it...
The website saying there are limited stock seems to have made a big difference when I ordered my .223. It was ordered on 9/20 and I carried it out of the store on 9/23...
I got the car, my 6.5 Creedmoor is in that I ordered around September 9th I believe.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Got email today that my 223 is ready for pick up. Thanks for the on-line rebate link. Glass, chassis, bi-pod...
Thanks for all the good info in this thread - kept me going while waiting
rkrk
I ordered a .223 and a 6.5 September 10. I got the .223 over a week ago but still no 6.5. My son's .308 came in this past weekend.
Edited to add that it now shows my 6.5 as Shipped.
Last edited by Johanson; 10-25-2017 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Update
I've never owned a bad savage..
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
That's awesome that you're getting the other one. My .308 is still In Process, but I have a feeling it will show shipped soon.
While some of us are still waiting, I have been doing some thinking. How many are planning to re-barrel their rifles? I've been debating on doing so with at least one rifle, but I have not made up my mind whether to do it or not. Besides building AR uppers, which is not really the same thing, I have never replaced the barrel on a Savage action. But, I am fairly confident I can do it without too much trouble as I have read and watched enough videos already. I just need the few tools required. My biggest reason is I would like a threaded muzzle to shoot suppressed.
I rebarreled my .308 my self with a shilen 28" select match bull barrel... you will definitely need the action wrench, the new barrel nut wrench and a barrel vice. It was well worth it.. it is as accurate as any high dollar custom I've shot. I also had to change stocks for the bull barrel to fit.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Ted,
That looks sharp. It certainly looks like a good shooter. I may give it a try this winter when there is not much else to do. I just need to buy the tools and figure out what barrel configuration I want.
Right on:) and thank you :) some tips that will help and my apologies if they are just common sense to anyone... You can purchase a barrel vice for about $40 or you can just drill the right size hole in a 4x4 that about 5 inches long then wrap your barrel with leather to help grip and prevent scarring, clean the action threads thouroughly, I ordered my barrel, precision lug, precision barrel nut, action wrench and nut wrench from Northland shooter supply,I went ahead and paid extra $10 to get the 1.5-4lb accutrigger spring. The actionwrench they sell also works with rem 700s, if you get a stainless barrel like I did make sure you give the threads a very light coat of high temp grease or anti siez that's made for stainless, make sure you have a set of clymer go/no go gauges. Northland has criterion and shilen drop in barrels for the Savage. It really is pretty straight forward and easy if you take your time and get the tools you need. Another reason I went with Northland shooter supply is their guys are really knowledgeable and will make sure you know what you need. There are undoubtedly more knowledgeable people than me out there but I would be happy to answer any questions you come across
Sent from my A1-840FHD using Tapatalk
Some of you may have seen my post a while back concerning the stickers Cabelas uses over the manufacturers and warning others because I had 2 rebate offers initially rejected for lack of upc codes. I took the advice of one of the replies about using a hair dryer to remove the extra stickers and it worked great. I then called Vistapromotions and spoke with a lady who brought up my account and was able to read enough of the upc from one of the original submissions to verify it. The other she said juat resubmit all the info and it should be fine also. Just received an email stating one rebate card was on the way. To all of those who made suggestions and comments. Thank You, Chris
That kind of DIY vise is not likely to do the job on factory installed barrels. They are often VERY tight.
I found a piece of 2"x2" hard oak at my local DIY store about 36" long. I cut off a 5" section and clamped it to the remaining longer piece near one end. Then I drilled a hole through both pieces right at the joint, making a vise with two half holes just the right size to clamp the barrel. Then I cut two pieces of 1/4" x 2" steel about 5" long and used them on the top and bottom of the wood as re-enforcing pieces. I drilled two holes through the entire assembly so that I could use two long bolts, nuts, and washers to clamp the vise together. I think I used 5/8" bolts but they might have been 9/16".
Get a piece of sturdy leather to wrap around the barrel and perhaps some powdered rosin if you know a baseball pitcher. Put the wrench on the barrel and clamp the barrel in the vise using a LOT of force to torque the well greased bolts down. Clamp your vise onto a sturdy work bench by using a lightweight clamp on the end opposite the vise. The 30" or 31" long arm will really help resist the torque required to remove the nut, so you only need a clamp large enough to keep your vise from sliding around on your bench. If you elect to make a short vise without the long torque arm, you need to either bolt it to a table or put it into a huge metal workers vise.
Put a 1/2" drive breaker bar on your special barrel wrench and really lean into it, being sure you're turning the nut the correct way. Then give the special wrench a whack with a medium sized hammer. You might be surprised at how hard it is to remove a factory Savage barrel, but it will come off. Again, be SURE you aren't turning the nut the wrong way.
Good luck. The next time will be a LOT easier.
^^^I would suggest you move the blocks and vice closer to the action. As it is in the picture, you are risking bending the barrel.
^^^ :) Good. :)
The barrel nut on the 12FV I plan to barrel swap has a smooth barrel nut. My 22-250 12FV purchased earlier this year is the notched type though. I know Wheeler makes a round nut wrench, and I have read of some using a pipe wrench to remove it as well. I also read of someone putting their rifle barrel in a vise and unscrewing the receiver away from the smooth barrel nut. Any suggestions on the best approach to that?
If I order a barrel, I figured I would try Northland Shooters Supply. From those that used them, how long did it take to receive their barrels? I will most likely request to have my muzzle threaded, so I know that most certainly will add some extra wait time.
On the smooth barrel nut, you don't have to remove it unless you're planning on reusing it just put the barrel in a barrel Vise and use the action wrench to turn the action away from the nut and the action will spin off
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Bookmarks