Quote Originally Posted by Phranque View Post
Re-barreling a Savage is pretty easy, which is why we love them so much. A 'smith will probably charge around $100 or so to do it.... for just a little more invested in the required tools, you can do as many times as you want yourself!

Factory recoil lugs are stamped, which tend not to give the truest face square to the action. They do OK for what they are, but whenever you re-barrel, it's always recommended to just go ahead pick up a machined lug to replace it. It provides an improved even distribution of the recoil into the stock/chassis.
I guess that makes sense when re-barreling. My entire purpose for this rifle is a quality high-precision that's fully capable from 100yds to 500+yds and all the way out to 1,000yds for both target and hunting without starting at $1,200+ optic. I'd never hunt it past 500yd with the 6.5CM but would love to ring the gong at 1,000yd! Cake and eat it too, I know. I keep coming back to the model 10 because of the features like accustock, accutrigger (I love the accutrigger on my .270 axis), threaded barrel, 10rd box mag, 24", 1 piece optic mount, and fluted barrel. The model 11 long range is next closest IMO but 26" is more than I wanted, plus I'd rather put the $200 extra into the optic. And I can't get over the cheek rest either...

I also don't want a full tacticool skeletonized AR styled, quadrailed, pistol griped gun. I already have an expensive AR that I don't like or shoot! This is why the model 10AB and similar is out for me.

You seem like you really know what you're talking about when it comes to savage rifles so any comments you may have on my unrealistic wishlist would be appreciated...


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