Quote Originally Posted by Lurchenstein View Post
Understandable but I don't want to send the brake down range lol. I ask because I have heard that the washer and shims can cause unnecessary torque on the barrel. I know that it's not much but I do want to compete with this rifle and want to get as much accuracy as possible. I am thinking of trying the blue Loctite method. I was just looking for some opinions on this.
Washers/shims do not create any more torque. Your arm bearing down on the wrench is what will create too much torque. I really don't see a need for anything other than blue loctite. Heck, you could probably get by with no loctite. Unless you are running a suppressor over the brake, it is a non issue anyway. I'm assuming you are going to use a conventional brake and not the type for quick detach suppressors?

I have read that many people will just hand tighten their brake with loctite on a precision rifle. I like to use blue loctite and snug it just a little bit. I assure you, it will not come loose on your 10FP SR if you do that. Mine (pictured on the rifle below) took a bit of effort to remove with just blue loctite. The barrel kept wanting to spin in the AR-15 style barrel vise. So, it was plenty secure. I had to put the vise/barrel in my large shop vise to hold it well enough to loosen the brake. Also, I clean the threads off the muzzle and brake before installing. I just wipe clean as much as I can with a towel. Others use solvents. I used to, but don't think it is necessary anymore. Just use some blue loctite and get to shooting. It won't come off.