I did measure trigger pull it was around 4lbs.
After this I want to buy or build a heavy/medium barrel 30-06. I also buy used guns, so I don't mind buying the gauge.
The bolt is apart right now, want to get some lube, LSP1, before I put it back together. I was going to yesterday, but didn't make it.
I will most likely get a 30-06 for the long action and do my build from that. I have a Sako Finnbear I hunt with in a 30-06 My father passed it down to me, he bought it new in 1963.
For the cost of the gauges I will get a set in 30-06 as well.
Oh I found the link to the bolt info
http://www.switchbarrel.com/Spring.htm
They tell about the trigger interfering with the firing pin speed.
These were all off a rest and bench, practicing. Not say I didn't screw up pull. I have considered removing the safety blade, to prevent a misfire in a rush when big one is front of me. Especially after reading about it happening on here. I do like it when I have time, it helps set up and time the trigger pull.Originally Posted by bowfishn
Quote from article at http://www.switchbarrel.com/Spring.htm:
"Note that incorrect trigger adjustments can also cause decreased firing pin energy, by interfering with the sear movement. In particular, some shooters may adjust the trigger to minimize backlash with the result that the trigger interferes with sear movement. Take a look at the trigger just beyond the point where the sear is released and see if there is any scraping marks. If so, increase backlash and see if it corrects the ignition problems."
I think they are referring to the sear dragging on the trigger not letting the sear drop out of the way of the firing pin assembly causing it to drag on the sear slowing down the pin resulting in miss fires. I don't think they mean the Accutrigger safety which should stop the firing pin all together. I don't think the miss fires are from trigger pull on your part if the primers show a strike or dent on them it would have to do with pin power too low, or pin protrusion too short but you already checked that and said it was fine. The other thing as the guys here told you would be head space too long allowing the cartridge to move ahead a bit diminishing the strike force of the pin. The method of checking the guys on this site told you would tell you that or as you are doing wait for the no go gauge and use it. Make sure as well while you have the bolt apart that the firing pin spring is not broken, it could still work but cause the pin to drag. Also look for any sign of the firing pin dragging in the bolt assembly. Hope you can find the problem before you run out of ammo.
Ok 2 pieces of tape, no go 3. T
That's not too bad. Maybe a bit "loose", depending on the tape. I would not mess with it much more until you get your no-go gage to verify. Had you gotten it to close on three pieces, it would CERTAINLY be too loose.
Wasn't perfect tape job, got stuck to bolt. Should try getting some shooting in before the bugs come in spring. Snow gets 3-4' deep at my range, so not alot of winter shooting. Sometimes with tractor can get 50 yards.
I agree. So what is left is how your understanding the trigger to operate and the unrestricted movement of the firing pin.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
If you have to understand the trigger, you need a different trigger. I have pulled a trigger many times on a rifle, and this is the only rifle that has not fired 3 times.
There was a dent on the primer, if I violated some kind of safety, it also failed.
If it were mine, I would take the bolt assembly apart and thoroughly clean and degrease, (maybe with lighter fluid) then apply light grease like Tetra Gun Grease and reassemble. Certainly won't hurt anything, might help. Confirm head space with your no go gage.
If the primer has a dent the trigger is not the problem.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I know this will sound stupid and rhetoric but please describe the dent compared to rounds that did fire
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Not stupid at all, We have ruled out all but restriction of firing pin motion. Cold environment and/or lubrication that gets tacky is highly probable. It is a good idea to test fit and function of the pin going back together.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Was dented fair amount. I think it is still at deer camp. Was 60 degrees, so I don't think weather was a factor. Was fall day previous time too.
Last time I don't remember for sure if they were dented or not. Last time was 2 Remington store bought rounds. This time hand land load with winchester primer. All rem brass. Fired around 75 rounds since last failure. Previous times were around 10 apart.
Already taken bolt apart. It is clicking, but will make sure it really works before I need it.
No dent in primer: Safety blade in trigger stopped sear effectively blocking firing pin travel.
Solution: Increase trigger weight if sear is tripping on bolt close. Correct improper trigger pull for the Accutrigger.
Dent but not igniting primer: Sear has been tripped and firing pin is traveling to the primer with no ignition.
Solution: Correct head space if excessive, correct firing pin restriction.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
After watching quite a few videos on YOU TUBE on the Accutrigger and the sear release, I can see IMO it is possible for the AccuRelease to cause a miss fire, by being pulled to the point of allowing the sear to release but hit a portion of the AccuRelease that is not completely out of the way and skipping over it causing the sear to slow down reducing impact on the Primer. Kind off in the same manner that a miss adjusted trigger would cause the sear to drag as mention at Switch Barrels. Just thought I would throw that back out there because it could happen. The only way to take that out of the equation is to remove the AccuRelease from the trigger, that way human error pulling the trigger could not be a factor. I would only do this if the problem still persists after you have eliminated all the other things you are working on.
Lots of stuff on here about accutrigger problems. Problem is, it has been 75 shots since the first time. This is this the biggest problem, which really hinders trouble shooting.
not if you read post 116This is this the biggest problem, which really hinders trouble shooting.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Primer not firing can be caused by a number of things. A few are, excess headspace, firing pin dragging, weak firing pin spring, primer not fully seated, bad primer for a number of reasons and I am sure I can think of more if I tried but these are enough to get started.
I think due to manufacturing differences the gauge is a good investment if you use factory ammo. It is possible you used a case at the long end of the spectrum and the ones that didn't fire are shorter causing a false headspace issue. If you only shot reloads it is not a problem as the die can be adjusted to compensate for a variance.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Another way to check your if your tension is too light !!! cycle your bolt slowly and check your trigger.. Do this 5 times but increase the power you cycle the bolt with but remember to check the trigger each time. If it is too light the sear will fall against the blade on your accu-release. At this point the you should increase the tension with the small tool so that the sear doesn't release against the accu-release. This way has always worked well for myself.
Got my nogo. Did not close on it I did do it with he ejector in though. Found the the shell with dented primer. Headspace checked on it too. I figured it was ok, since last time was factory ammo.
The ejector does not have to be removed to check head space, as long as the gage will eject after trying to close the bolt on it.
So now we are left with either a weak firing pin spring (HIGHLY unlikely) or the pin is dragging and therefore slow and/or too short. As suggested earlier, dissasemble and clean. Strip it clean of all grease and oil and re-lube with quality gun oil and grease. When done, measure the firing pin protrusion when de-cocked and report back.
Measured protrusion already. Stripped bolt. The failure rate is every 75 rounds or so. So not easy to say it is good.
Can you measure the firing pin compressed. A picture of the firing pin assembly would be great.
I ask because some people back of on the spring tension to improve bolt lift.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
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