FTF after removing bolt

[Berserker]

I have mixed feelings about selling this gun ethically. If I could buy a not bolt, I would just keep it. I can't see what improvements there are aftermarket, but maybe there are. It is fairly smooth. Not as smooth as my 70s 700. Not sure if I would want a longer handle, not sure correct term at the moment.

Just part of the bolt assembly? If I could just replace it at reasonable cost, I may rather then screw it. Usually I like screwing with, but this only shows up every 75-100 rounds, and I don't want to risk a buck on it.

[RC20]

I bought this model because I heard how good the accutrigger is. Should have just bought cheaper one and put after market trigger in.

I am going to weigh in and take it for what its worth.

Find out what the problem is. Seems like jumping here and there and no logical progression.

Lots of tests, run em.

Previously the only way to have a safe trigger was a heavy trigger (I assume you have read about Remington and their trigger issues?)

If you have shot revolver you know that as the DA part. No safety per sea, just a very heavy pull (10-12 lbs). Bolt actions had gone the same qay7, ugly nasty heavy trigger pull to avoid liability issues.

So, Savage took the complaints and came up with a far better system. That is the safety blade that takes place of the heavy pull.

Then you have an adjustable trigger, 2.5 lbs minimum for a hunter, 1.5 for the Varmint style.

Unlike some, I like it, I also understand there is some aspect to it that can be an issue (last time I checked I had to fill my vehicles up with fuel form time to time, is that a vehicle fault or just plain reality?)

However, all things have downsides (have you read about the Remington trigger problem ?) You should.

In this case there is some sensitivity problem involved and a possible trip without the striker doing its thing.

Now you have a choice. Quit complaining and work out what the problem is, dump the gun (I will consider an offer) Buy something other than a Remington (I hear there are still issues)

So the bottom line is start working with the people trying to help you out or dump the gun.

[Berserker]

To me bolts should be 100% reliable. That is why many buy them. I got a Mosin Nagant that goes bang. Granted I have not shot it as much.

I have only had problems with Savage. Not that I have shot alot of brands. I am open to brands.

At one time I thought maybe I was not disengaging the the trigger safety, I didn't look at FTF close enough. This time I see there is a dented primer, and different brand of primer.

Is the trigger not striking the firing pin hard enough, or firing pin not hitting hard enough.

It has been 75-100 rounds since it did this. First time few apart. So it is hard to trouble shoot. When it comes to deer and bear hunting, I don't want to adjust one thing, then try another.

I have changed springs on DA and I am familar with the design and why.

[Berserker]

I am asking about replacement bolts or firing pins, or people think it could be the trigger. Maybe because this is a Savage forum, people will not want to discuss the problem. I was hoping this would be the place to find experts.

I'd be happy just replacing all possible parts, and be done with it. Like I said normally I like tinkering around. But this is for hunting, and the problem spread apart.

[Berserker]

I was on another site, searched dented primer. The first one to come up was another 116. I think I will email Savage, free to ask if there is any issues.

[Berserker]

What about measuring headspace? All 3 were new remington brass though. I didnt check trim length on all of them. One guy thought he was brass was pushed forward.

This winter I will measure the pin. But it bothers me to have to. The gun looked brand new to me, or close to it.

[RC20]

You need to slow down, you are all over the map.

You also need to get over the reliable both thing. Its a piece of equipotent, its not a guarantee.
My brother fought a Ruger bolt issue for 25 years and finally solved it one day.

If you are getting dented primers then its move to the bolt and or head space.

You have a used gun, it may have had an issue that was passed on.

So, rather than jumping all over the place, settle down, we can come up with a plan.

If you are not willing to do that, then we can't help you.

[RC20]

I am asking about replacement bolts or firing pins, or people think it could be the trigger. Maybe because this is a Savage forum, people will not want to discuss the problem. I was hoping this would be the place to find experts.

I'd be happy just replacing all possible parts, and be done with it. Like I said normally I like tinkering around. But this is for hunting, and the problem spread apart.

Now I am in sarcastic mode, replace the rifle, problem almost certainly solved. If new rifle does not solve it, replace, repeat until you find a rifle that works.

[olddav]

Shot about 75 rounds of 30-06 this fall. Last night the 116 failed to fire. Fired a few more no problem. WLR primer on handloads, with a dent. Last time was factory Coreloct.

I have spent alot of time cleaning barrel. I have not taken bolt apart. Have wiped it down. Last time it failed it did not have this much shooting time on it, so not sure if dirt is an issue or not. New springs or cleaning or new bolt and be done with it?

My MK85 has become my backup rifle for deer season. That thing does shoot well.

Your problem is in the bolt. Take it apart, clean it, while reassembling the bolt check firing pin protrusion. If you try to replace the bolt you may need to reset head space.

[olddav]

Sorry I just reviewed the thread and I would like to rescind my eariler ^^^ post.

[Robinhood]

If Berserker squeezes the trigger on an empty chamber with the action cocked and it goes "click" from the firing pin ramming home we can move to a prioritized list of things to investigate.

1 Ammo fires from different gun with no issues (optional)
2 Trigger is sitting on sear when cocked (every time)******
3 Head space (chamber) and (case) If/when reloading it is easy to set up your dies incorrectly over sizing the brass.
4 Firing pin protrusion (probably OK. Should have approximately .040 +or -.005)
5 Back to the firing pin make sure there is no binding in the cocking piece, pin and sleeve and the sleeve sits in the grooves on the nut when pushed to the bottom with the cocking pin installed. Make sure the firing pin assembly slides easily/freely in the bolt body before you replace the BAS

[Berserker]

2 shells were store bought one hand load, 2 different brands of primers. I don't think it is the ammo.

If it was protrusion, would it do it more often?

[Robinhood]

2 shells were store bought one hand load, 2 different brands of primers. I don't think it is the ammo.

If it was protrusion, would it do it more often?

Solving problems requires a process of elimination. The order in which we test can be critical. Eliminating only the issues that are most common first makes the most sense.

We bypassed number one, that is no problem. I have not read all of your post and you may have tried that already. We can come back to that later if you have not.

Since the primer is getting dented "every time" number two can be eliminated.

Looks like we are at number three. Have you tried the no go gauge? Have you done anything with the case like add tape to the base and tried to close the bolt on it? What we are looking for is if there is enough room for the case to move forward as the primer strikes.

Once we have determined the answer to number three we can move forward to Number Four: firing pin protrusion.

[Berserker]

I don't have a no gauge. Tape sounds easy.

[Robinhood]

Cellophane tape is what you want to use. (Scotch tape) be gentle and trim it close.

[Bunky-Shooter]

Robin hood is leading you in the right direction..Been reading and following the info. being talked about.. If the rifle is firing the protrusion on the firing pin i probably correct. To check your firing pin protrusion decock your firing pin off of the cocking ramp. It should measure from .035 to.05 for it to fire. Factory set is .05 to.062. If this is correct I would take the bolt apart give it a thorough cleaning. Had this problem before and it was trash in the bolt body.. The trigger is a dead horse everyone is beating. Accu-triggers work as they are designed too.

[Berserker]

I'll probably order gauges, I like gadget. I have the one for checking case head, but never use it.

Never had a bolt apart except for a nagant, which is a cheap gun I wasn't worried about.

Guess I need to learn. Sure lots of stuff on the internet. I don't have mic at camp.

[Robinhood]

If you are going to order gauges it will not hurt to jump to number 4. However, it is very easy to do number 3 with scotch tape. So easy my 11 y o grandaughter can do it... and has.

[Berserker]

I am at deer camp.

[Berserker]

Trimmed scotch rape with dull scisors. Bolt closed and no mark on tape from pin, that I could see.

I don't have magnifying glass here should get one.

[Robinhood]

If bolt closed add another piece of tape. Coke or bear cans can be cut into shims also. it is a pain with the ejector in but can be done. Add until the bolt will not close. Don't try to fire it. Closing the bolt is the idea. We can tell how much the head space is off... or at least have some idea.

Lets say you put four layers of tape before it will not close, You would have too much head space clearance. the tape is not ideal but again offers us some idication of improper clearances. Too much clearance and the cartridge movement buffers the firing pin strike.

[Berserker]

How much is to much? At some point even a gun with correct headspace won't close.

[Robinhood]

That would have been the case on the first layer more than likely. The second layer for sure. After that you are in too much headspace land.....if your brass is the correct size. We don't know the exact tape you are using so the thickness is an unknown. If it is .003 two pieces would more than likely put you way out on the end of the tolerance. At that point I would say you need a Set of gauges and it would be time to reset the headspace.

If you are ripping the tape off on closing you need to get a no go gauge.

[Bunky-Shooter]

Berserker sounds like you may have gotten confused on the purpose of the tape. Headspace for a cartridge is the minimum dimension of the chamber plus .006. If your rifle’s chamber is not cut within this range, some extreme situations can be dangerous. You should go to this site they will explain the purpose of headspace. I first started building my own rifles i had a
hard time understanding how this all works. Hope this helps you out.. http://www.rifleshootermag.com/gunsm...eadspace_0612/

[Berserker]

From what I read if the head space is to much, I will need a go gauge and barrell wrench. Snug until touches the gauge and then lock the nut down. Sounds easy, but I am sure I will make it harder then it needs to be.

I am not happy with a few things about this gun, but being able to do barrel work yourself appeals to me. It is why I ride Harleys.