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Thread: recommendations for scope under $1100 for 12lrp 6.5 creedmoor

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  1. #21
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    [QUOTE=cowtownup;361081]Well, if you had your optic set at the proper zoom level which made the hash marks of the recticle true (SFP) or if you had a (FFP) optic, you could simply hold back on bull and measure with the recticle to the POI.. Then you could either adjust your scope accordingly or simply hold off.. All of this providing you have perfect ammo and the wind condition remained the same...

    If the recticle was a mil dot with moa knobs, you would just pack up your **** and head home.. LOL...
    Does that make any sence?

    Well to me it dosent, because for me in view of why I do this, (hunting) it might mean wait till next year.
    Besides, when I learned to shoot there weren't any scope choices like we have today. So you had to find
    ways to hit things with what was available which wasent much, but frankly it isn't very hard.
    As for the question, id advise trying what ive said. It need not be at 1000 yds but the farther the better.
    Imagine if you can, that when you shoot at the target, a small black speck appears in your scope exactly
    where the bullet impacted the target, and the speck stays there until you fire the next shot when it moves
    to align itself with where that shot hit.
    What would happen is, if you were to transfer the black speck in the scope from the first shot, to the orange aiming point on the plywood, you would hit it with your second shot. No dialing involved, just hold and shoot.
    So if you have a milldot type reticle or not, or wether it matches the turrets or not, it can be used in this manner for second round hits.
    Now if your attempting to move a bullet 6" on a target, then certainly a matching scope would be a benefit.
    Also while your experimenting with the plywood target or any target, try this dialing method.
    Shoot your first shot at the target. Then realign the reticle on the original aiming point, and without allowing the gun to move, dial the scope so that the reticle is aligned with the first shot hit on the target.
    Shoot again, and assuming you didn't move the gun or dial incorrectly, your second shot will be where you want it to be.
    FFP, 2nd ffp, mill/mill, yadda yadda or whatever, it really dosent matter much for the most part except to our individual opinions, some of which were gathered by simply reading what others think.
    Last edited by yobuck; 04-06-2016 at 02:06 PM.

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