Schnyd, What did you change from bottom to top in post 18?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I got her licked now. I don't know what I was doing wrong, but I put it away and came back to it this evening. These are ones that came out rough, so I ran them through again and cut deeper into the shoulder. These are not keepers, cut too thin and a little rough but I've got it now. Just need to check with you LR about how deep to cut. I was somehow making it way harder than it needed to be.
Speed of the drill. That was about it, just went more rpms which made it easier to keep consistent. The far right was also the first I did that night.
See now those look good...I'd still like to see the cut into the shoulder in person...it's pretty simple once you get the tool adjusted...they come out super clean at high speeds but the mandrel starts getting warm and causes issues but I think you got it now.
2 words....cutting lube. Never cut them dry, use lube on the mandrel and on the outside of the neck. Imperial sizing lube works fine.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
I have to agree with LongRange !! Turning at a slower rate will make you necks come out much better. I have successfully turned down military 7.62 to shoot in my 260. Had to make 2 passes to get
where i wanted the necks. Military brass is thicker !! I use a Lee #2 casing holder and lock stud using a Bosch PS20 pocket driver to cut down my brass. The Pocket driver will only turn 400 rpm max (variable speed) so its a great tool for cutting down necks. My cutting tool is a Hornady cutter !! After cutting I lightly polish using 0000 steel wool. Brass looks nice at this point.. Good luck !!!
Last edited by Bunky-Shooter; 02-02-2016 at 09:24 AM. Reason: wording mistake
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