Not for myself, if I remove anything its the ejector
Is removing the extractor and firing pin from the bolt body the preferred method to head space a new barrel?
Not for myself, if I remove anything its the ejector
OOPS Ejector was what I meant...DOH!
Make sure that extractor goes over rim of gauge.
Why not remove both? Good time to check the spring and clean the pocket for the spring/ball while you have the bolt disassembled.
I remove both extractor and ejector when i head space.
^. I remove nothing and have never had an issue. I screw the barrel into the action until i feel that it's close to correct. Then I just make sure to tuck the rim of the go gauge under the lip of the extractor, hold it in place, and close the bolt. Edit-Then run the barrel down to the go-Gauge. Back off just a little- maybe 1/16 of a turn, and tighten. Check with a no-go gauge.- Works fine. The camming action of closing the bolt, and/or the turning in of the barrel into the threads of the action, easily overcome the modest pushing force of the ejector.
When I first started doing it, I would remove the extractor as instructed with the Wheeler kit. I have decided that, for me, it's unnecessary if I'm careful with the placement of the go gauge on the bolt head.
Last edited by barrel-nut; 12-22-2014 at 11:35 PM.
+1 to barrel-nut. Some gauges have a slot to clear the ejector. I line that up and it stays on the bolt.
+2 with barrel-nut, I dont remove anything either, just carefully place the go-gauge against the bolt face.
Scooter
I'm the Boss. I make sure what she wants gets done.
I don't remove anything either.
+3 with barrel-nut :-))
+4 with barrel nut.
Been doing that way since day 1. I have rebarreled enough times I lost count a few years ago, always have done it this way with one exception, but that was a very out of the norm set of circumstances that time.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
+5. Never had an issue
Odd man out I guess.
I have always removed the extractor. I've never messed with the ejector or firing pin.
12F, McGowen 6.5x284 1-8" twist, Nightforce 12-42x BR<br />BVSS, McGowen barrel, 22-250 1-9" twist, Nikon 6-18x<br />16 FHLSS Weather Warrior, Sinarms 257 Roberts, Pentax 3-9<br />Stevens 200, 223 bone-factory-stock, Nikon 3-9x<br />Scratch-built BVSS, LW 243 1-8" twist, Viper 6.5-20x50 mil-dot
I cut a notch in the HS gage to clear the ejector on all those I have that didn't already have the cut. On some of my wildcats, I just use new formed brass and don't worry about the ejector. Barrel-Nut's method is probably the most used method I've seen.
NRA Endowment Member
+6.
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