take the screw out of the back of your bolt handle. shake the bolt tube a little so the sleeve slides out and pull the cocking pin out of the side. the firing pin will then come out.
Model 10 .223
take the screw out of the back of your bolt handle. shake the bolt tube a little so the sleeve slides out and pull the cocking pin out of the side. the firing pin will then come out.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Got itOriginally Posted by Blue Avenger
Thanks :)
Put it back together and the bolt seemed harder to close ?
Anywho I took the little balls & Spring out of the Baffle
and took a half coil of the spring. Polished all the mating surfaces and
Put it back together and now it is easier :)
The shortened Coil made the biggest difference.
how often should you disassemble and clean the bolt?
Jesse
Shortening the FP spring will lighten things up but could cause ignition problems.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
one piece of advice i got on b/beard was to put primers in cases, fire the rifle as cutting the spring until it started to loss strike on primer. suggested buying an extra spring just in case.
made sense to me i plan on using this on my 6br
bob
From another thread:
I generally follow this list when I go through any of my bolts and it does do a lot for smoothing things out. I don't do everything but most things on the list I do.Originally Posted by BillPa
Dolomite
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