Easily done, however you've got to have a scope base and rings that will return to zero every time since you have to remove the scope to swap barrels, unless you have a bore sighter.
I have an index mark on my barrel nut that lines up with an index mark on my action so the barrel nut is always tensioned the same. I have barrels in 243, 308, and 22/250 that have another index mark on them, which lines up with the barrel nut index mark.
I also use a bore sighter after each barrel swap, and set the scope up to each barrel via an excel spreadsheet that shows the zero point for that particular barrel. I'm within 1/8"@100 after a barrel swap.