Don't think it should move. was just looking at one of mine to be sure it was the locking lug and not the bassle you were seeing. Mine dose not move even when empty.
I have a savage 10fp that is a couple of years old now. I have been geting several flyers. I have
noticed that when the bolt is closed with a chambered round, I can push the bolt body and watch the
bolt face move through the hole in the side of the reciever.
Is this normal, if not is their a fix?
Thanks
Don't think it should move. was just looking at one of mine to be sure it was the locking lug and not the bassle you were seeing. Mine dose not move even when empty.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
just checked 3 more, they are tight also. screw in the back of the bolt tight?
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Just checked and it's tight. I checked an old 112 in .223 that I have and the body will move a little but not as much as my 10fp. Looking at it again,
I can see the bolt head and the baffle move when I push on the bolt body.
I don't see how they couldn't move a tiny amount. Close any gun bolt and it will probably move back and forth. Don't worry about it, especially a Savage and its floating bolt head.
Flyers can be attributed to so many variables in the whole process from component weighing, case prep, loading, weapon maintenance, tuning, delivery, environment, I swear unless you have no other purpose for shooting other than the elusive one-hole group, it can consume you and detract from your enjoyment of every trip to the range. You have to experiment with each variable while trying not to change any of the other ones, so as to determine if it is the cause. It can turn a hobby into a job. Try shooting your ammo in someone elses known good gun of similar model and caliber. Shoot someone elses known good ammo through your gun. Have someone you know is a good shooter, shoot your gun and ammo. The point being, try to divide and conquer with a minimum of disturbance to the other variables. Slowly zoom in, don't start already zoomed in.
Hoot
In [b]Theory[/b], there is no difference between theory and practice. In [b]Practice[/b], there is.
how many pieces of scotch tape can you put on the end of the brass and still close the bolt?
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
I can put six pieces and still close the bolt. It is very snug though. 7 pieces and it will not close.
After I close the bolt with the 6 pieces I can still move the bolt body but It is a lot harder to move.
6 pieces of scotch tape just doesn't sound right. I just head spaced my barrel and it would not close on 2 pieces of tape.
I have a PTG go gauge but I do not have a NOGO gauge. I just checked with go gauge and it will not close with only 1 piece of tape.
guessing...this one is a .223 also?
your LW barrel? who chambered it?
If there both .223 how dose the gauge fit in the 110?
also a guess, your FL sizing your brass?
Do you have a caliper to measure some sized and fired brass at the shoulders?
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
It's a 10fp .308 with LW barrel. It was a drop in barrell chambered by LW. The brass I used was an unfired brass.
I do have a caliper and when I will measure both.
Thanks
If your brass out of the die looks closer to book spec then what is fired out of your barrel I would say the headspace is wrong. You have the wrench to change it, you mentioned a smith setting it up.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
I do not have a die but I do have a wrench to change it. But, according to my PTG gage its set correct.
no reloading die? your shooting factory loads?
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Yes. I have only been shooting 168 federal match.
ok, ammo would be small end of spec tolerance. gauge may be large (long) side of spec. This the only ammo you have on hand?
Not sure what to tell you.
You could turn the barrel in a hair just for this ammo. see what happens to your accuracy.
You could have it checked by another gauge.
Know anyone that reloads .308 to get a test case to check against current settings?
Not sure what you are comfortable doing? :)
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Thanks for the help. I am in the process of ordering a press and some dies so this helps me get started.
Thanks again!!
I will catch heck for this.. If your going to reload, set the gun up with a case sized in your die. then you know it fits. If your ammo fits right in the chamber snugger then it dose now, you are not going to blow anything up. possible issue with some factory ammo down the road. also if you have the barrel off at some point check that the case looks like this. not much higher or lower. extractor grove should just clear barrel.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
I have a lot of Federal match ammo to shoot before I start reloading heavy. I may try to set the barrel in a little like you advised and try that. Thanks for your help!
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