One of the threads on this subject I was just reading said there were reports of these stocks breaking in the wrist area- that is what i am going by. Mine do flex but has caused no issues thus far so if they aren't breaking than i won't worry about it- great hunting guns!
Axis .223 with 4x12x40 Redfield Revolution
Stainless Axis .30-06 with 3.5x10x40 VX3 Leupold.
Hey Frank
You wouldnt happen to weigh the stock before and after? Just curios how much weight you added and how much it stiffened the stock?
I used a broken arrow shaft to put a couple of stiffeners in my Axis. I also cut 3.25" off the tip of the stock and moved the bipod stud back about that far. As luck would have it the carbon shafts i put in with the glue ended up weighing just about what I cut off=1.68lbs
Here is the funny part. I also weighed the gun set up the way I would hunt with it and the dang thing weighed over 10 lbs with Bipod,sling,ammo holder,ammo in clip and the 2lb IOR scope....It has since been put on a diet ;-)
I never really gave the additional weight any consideration. After I replace the toothpick barrel with a truck axle, add a little counterweight in the butt end of the stock so it doesn't nose-dive, a full load of ammo....
It weighs alot.
I wouldn't want to be running around the jungle with it strapped to my back. Now, I did set up a newer Stevens action with a .308 barrel & a stock from a 116 with aluminum rods. I think it's around 7 to 8lbs.
Not too terribly bad.
I 'spose I'll set a couple of the fat barrel rifles on a scale to get an idea of what the end result is. If I had to guess, I'd say around 11 - 12lbs +.
Long day. i gotta go check my eyelids for cracks on the inside. Later.
Frank in FLa
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Frank...Great instruction on the mod. Thanks
I didn't think this was still in circulation.....
Glad to help. For what it's worth, it does make a difference if you shoot off a bipod. All my rifles have bipods & they do flex to the point of the stock putting pressure on the barrel without the reinforcement. Also, if you go to a fat barrel, you'll be taking away from the stock to fit the barrel in the channel. The reinforcement helps there. It'll get you by until you have an extra $800 for that new Manners you've been eyeballing.
Enjoy!
Frank in Fla
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Frank, I followed your instructions to reinforce the forend of my stock. I must say it was easier than I thought, I used a .250 rod and after the epoxy cured and I reinstalled the barreled action, the rifle was a little nose heavy. So I decided to add some weight to the butt because once I replace the stock barrel with my new 26" heavy varmint barrel it will really tilt forward. So I removed the Savage emblem on the bottom of the pistol grip and filled the stock 90% with sand and then used some expanding foam to seal it in. With a little hot melt glue I resealed the cap on the bottom of the grip. It did add a pound or two to the gun but it is now better balanced for some prone and bench work. Can't wait for nicer weather to put a few rounds through it. Well, wouldn't you know it, I have to take it apart again I just received my Rifle Basix trigger, I will let you know how the install goes. Thanks for posting your stock work.
I know exactly what you'e talking about. I put a 26" varmint barrel on one of mine. When I set it on the table it pivoted on the bipod by itself. I epoxied a super heavy duty door hinge in the stock. The kind of hinge you'd find on a steel fire door.
Worked like a charm. But ya know, It stabilizes the rifle nicely if you shoot from a bench. I don't think I'd like to run around the woods with it strapped to my back.
If does settle it down quite a bit. I can watch the shot thru the scope on my .243 because of the weight.
Glad to know it works for you. Happy shooting & don't forget....
You'll be required to post a few targets after you find out what ammo it likes.
Have a Merry and a Happy.
Frank in FLa
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
Frank, as soon as I get my barrel vise and action wrench I will be changing out the original 223 REM to my new 20 Practical. I plan to cut the original barrel down to 16.5" and thread it for a break and can
How much space do you need around the barrel to make sure it is free floating?
I would say about the thickness of a business card so it is not putting pressure on any point of the barrel. I think it's got something to do with the harmonics of the barrel as the bullet passes through it like using a tuning fork when tuning a piano.
On the average, fold a sheet of paper in half.... SOme guys use a dollar bill....
I like a little breathing room so a folded business card works for me.
If you have a bipod on your rifle & you apply a little forward pressure to it you may need that space to keep from pushing the barrel against the stock.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
I have Great Stuff-ed the butt of my Axis .270, and done the triggerguard-area reinforcement. So far my style of shooting has not been handicapped by the flexible forend, and I REALLY like the light weight when out tromping the woods. But, the mod is certainly food for thought.
Pisgah
I did just what Frank explained exept I used pieces of light arrow shaft instead of the steel rods,cut 3" off the end of the stock and moved the bipod stud back a little. It really helped when shooting off the bipods and did not increase the weight at all......Preaty it aint but I might great stuff the space between the barrel and stock yet to help seal off the front that was cut down??
nice write up! I'll be doing this to my Axis very soon.
Hey guys, got tied up with other stuff and just got around to installing the Rifle Basix trigger. Man what a big difference, the trigger feels great, still too cold here to go to the range. I'll probably install the new barrel before I get a chance to shoot the original, the barrel vise and action wrench came last week.
Nice work. I just picked up a 308 axis w/ 20" threaded barrel for target shooting mostly but some hog and other hunting. Like others, I am concerned about the weight for hunting purposes, but had a thought. I am a VERY novice rifle shooter, and this is my first "real rifle" outside of a savage 22 semi auto plinker and a sks w/16" barrel, so I am learning as I go on all these tricks etc. Wouldnt it be feasible/pretty much the same effectiveness to use the epoxy in say every other cavity along the barrel channel? This way the rods were still bonded to the stock, but in theory you cut half the weight added by the epoxy, plus what you shave off from floating the barrel? I realize its going to have 100% effectiveness with your method of solid epoxy, but the loss of rigidness from the rods being connected at the ends and in the middle should be negligible, and save at least 1 lb I would think. Thoughts? Like I said I am NO gunsmithing expert and the most ive done previously is take my guns down to "field stripped" for a thorough cleaning.
say boss i am a newbie and have a savage axis 30-06 ss... i have done some reading on the firearm and was just going to ask how to reinforce the plastic stock....great way to do the forend and i wil do mine your way.. i was thinking about the stock butt reinforcement.....wonder if fiberglass would work by filling the stock with it in layers wonder if it would effect the plastic and i know it gets a little hot while it cures... and i guess bondo is out of the question but that epoxy you are speaking of might work great also thought of filling it with simple silicone gel sure would remain flexible....dont forget now i am a newbie but i am mechanicaly inclined and understand physics to a certain point great thinking boss im also thinking of buying another factory stock and customizing it keep the forend the same cutting of the rear but end to a certain point and fitting a magpul adjustible stock.. possibly using rods and ablank load of fiberglass to mold the magpul mount in the cut stock just have to wonder what it would look like... just a thought please reply
Last edited by plutonium; 01-31-2013 at 01:00 AM.
I've been looking for this thread and CA Turkey Huntsman located for me. One thing I've noticed is that the inside of the wrist on my new Savage Axis .243 in lefthand does'nt look anythng like Franks. The wrist on mine has No flex whatsoever. Maybe Savage stiffened up some.
I finally got a chance to shoot my Axis before I swapped barrels.....what bullets will stabilize in a factory 9T barrel? I tried everything from 55gr - 75gr bullets and the smallest group I was able to achieve was about 1.5" @ 100 yards shooting off a mechanical rest and rear sandbag. These same loads will produce under .75 MOA in my 8T .223. So as soon as I can find some time I will give my new 20 Practical barrel a try. I should have tried swapping my own barrels sooner, that was easy.
My son just shot Hornday 68 grain .223 last weekend and we got .68 MOA at 400 yards, off a bipod. So far, that's been the most accurate ammo in my .223 Axis.
Hey Ron Smith -
tell me more about that Basix trigger set up.
Things like cost & any other particulars that you think might be important. I have one I simply can not make happy. I believe it's time to change it out so I don't need a pry bar to pull it.
Already did all the old familiar tricks & mods.... It's toast.
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
I don't know that weapon--I never buy 223 unless it's an AR. But my Axis 308 was a mediocre shooter with factory until I started reloading--and I can get it down to under .5 MOA fairly easily with a little diligent work. I suspect the same would be the case with your weapon.
[B][COLOR="#FF8C00"]Shooting--it's like high-speed golf[/COLOR][/B]
No....
I have an older 110 (circa 1997 +/-) and lately the trigger has gotten a little harder to pull. I've performed all the old favorites - polised sear / trigger, .040" wire spring, adjust, etc - and I think its worn. Just doesn't feel light like it used to. This has happened over a period of about 2 months of every Sunday use.
Maybe I should have clarified what I wrote. It does look like I have a RB that's not happy, doesn't it?...
'Scuse me while I whip this out...!
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