I have heard that a paint stripper rated for epoxy paints will take off duracoat. I haven't had a chance to try. If you aren't worried about the finish underneath it might be worth a shot instead of trying to sand it all down.
Too much hardener will do this too. I bought a matte clear and went over my muzzleloader that I sprayed in their French Army pattern with the SL version of their paints and dulled it right back where I wanted it. The SL is supposed to be more durable and self lubricating and not burnish as bad, but it does have more sheen than the original. I use the tactical colors when possible for flatter finishes now.Originally Posted by scnewt
I have heard that a paint stripper rated for epoxy paints will take off duracoat. I haven't had a chance to try. If you aren't worried about the finish underneath it might be worth a shot instead of trying to sand it all down.
I sanded the surface but I think next time I will use something courser than 220 grit. You all have been very informative and I know what to do next time. I will repainting one of the frames and the slides off of the pistols and repainting the bolt handle because it does not match the duracoat that was already on the rifle it goes to. I think that it will be possible to get the finish sanded off because it is not fully hardened yet (takes a month) and I don't believe it would hurt to leave a little of the old duracoat on before the new stuff goes on.
Thanks!
the last 2 guns i painted with dura coat i used a small touch-up hvlp spray gun i got at menards for like $25. worked so much better than the airbrush! didn't have to stop every 4 minutes to refill the jar with paint. it's also more adjustable. just practice a little bit with the adjustments on some scrap pieces to get the hang of it. also i found a little less hardner and a fine spray pattern gives a good flat finish with the matte colors.
Substantial!Originally Posted by scott597
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