A thead file would work well. Not very expensive either.
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-Threa.../dp/B000K1GAI0
does anyone make a rethreading tool to fix slight damage to threads on small shank barrels?
javman
A thead file would work well. Not very expensive either.
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-Threa.../dp/B000K1GAI0
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
If it is slight damage, a small triangular file works well. Some folks already have one in their tool box. Standard thread pitch is 60* and that just happens to be the same as the file.
However I really like the tool geargrinder suggested. Very easy to use and hard to over do it. They have saved my behind on many occasions like bearing lock nuts...but that is another tale.
Good luck.
+1 to geargrinderOriginally Posted by geargrinder
Unless you can get a thread restorer die (doubtful for this size at a reasonable price), this is the correct tool for the job.
You can buy a die that is specifically made for the Savage barrel threads. You'll crap yourself when you see the price though.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...-RECEIVER-DIES
I have a tap that size I use after I mount scopes. It puts threads in the scope mount screws that are a bit long.
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Trent,
I saw those and might as well buy another barrel lol.
Originally Posted by Trent
You won't need loctite either. ;DOriginally Posted by Blue Avenger
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
For those of you who try using that die nut...make sure you back off on the adjustment screwbefore your first pass. Work the screw down slowly untill it is snug but only removes the damaged metal. It is fine line between removing to much and just the right amount. The closer you are to a class one rhread the better. By that I mean there should be no movement between the barrel and the action. At least that is my Philosophy.
+1 :)
That would actually be a class 3 fit. You would in no way want a class 1 fit, that would be looser than a hardware store bolt and nut. The savage barrel to receiver fit is a class 2 fit for production purposes.Originally Posted by stangfish
Wouldn't just shortening the screw be easier? ???Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
Don't inject logic! There's no place for that here.Originally Posted by Cycler
Is it any wonder why gunsmithing prices are so high when you see the price of some of the tools they have to buy and some hardly get used!
"An armed society is a polite society"
"...shall not be infringed" What's the confusion?
You are correct. I meant to say "Class Three" but was distracted in my thinking. I hope I explained it in correctly in the rest of my post. My intent was to offer good advice not bad. Thanks for the correction MW.Originally Posted by michael word
Will a 1"x20 TPI adjustable die works by leaving the die open? it is only 0.05" difference!
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults
Will a 1"x20 TPI split adjustable die work by leaving the adjustment screw open? It is only 0.05" difference. MSC has one.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT...-SearchResults
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