was this a new action or did you remove a barrel from it? may have warped it.
I’m puzzled. My new Douglas barreled 6mmAI build on an LRP action. I’ve had 4 different scopes on it Nightforce NXS, Weaver V24, Konus & Simmons. Each scope runs out of left adjustment.
I know for a fact the nightforce, weaver, & simmons are good scopes, I have Warne bases and rings on each scope. I have even flipped ends with the bases I done that before I mounted the nighforce no change. I think my holes are off.
Any ideas
This pic is with the nightforce mounted at 100 yards.
Thanks
[img width=512 height=768]http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac161/Zx-14guy/IMG_2619r.jpg[/img]
was this a new action or did you remove a barrel from it? may have warped it.
Remove the barrel and check the nut the lug and the action for for dings on the mating surfaces. Some methods of assembly/disassembly can cause proud metal. Don't ask me how I know.
New action from Jim briggsOriginally Posted by keeki
lolOriginally Posted by stangfish
Now i can put my gun in a rest from bedroom wall to bedroom wall. It's 18 yards.(lazered) I have a orange dot stuck on the wall you can take the bolt out look down the barrel and see the dot you just run out of adjustment on the scope before you get close to the dot on the wall. Make any sense?
If there is a high spot on one of the mating faces....yes.
Sounds like the holes could be drilled off center. Burris Signature Zee rings could be your new best friend.
Millett Angle Lock rings would be the easiest cure for this problem.
I had a similar problem with a Weaver picatinny rail mounted on my Model 10FP. Tried various scopes, all known performers, to no avail. Took the rail off to look for burrs as stangfish pointed out above, and after finding nothing, proceeded to reinstall. That's when I discovered that the mounting holes in the rail were not the beveled, self-centering
type, but had a squared shoulder for the screws to tighten down on. There was enough slop in the holes that when the screws were just slightly loosened, you could wiggle the rail side to side a little bit. I apparently had it cocked to one side when I first mounted it. I shifted it a slight amount in the needed direction, retightened, reinstalled the scope, and found that I was now close to center. I was somewhat worried that this thing would shift under recoil, but I've got probably 300 or so rounds of .308 through it with no shift in POI. Keep in mind too this was a very slight amount of "slop", but it still made a big difference at 100 yds.
BTW, did you say your bedroom is 18 yds. wide? ???
Lots of windage adjstable rings out there.
Somewhat unlikely given its a new LRP i.e. Target Action - done in two passes on a CNC machining center. Difficult to get *just* the scope holes 'off' in that environment.Originally Posted by efm77
Possible something warped a bit during heat treat following machining, though.
BTW, did you say your bedroom is 18 yds. wide? ???
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LOL I wish. From my master bedroom wall, through dinning room,through the kitchen,through the hall way into the other bedroom wall is 18 yards.
"Possible something warped a bit during heat treat following machining, though."
That's possible too. But nothing's perfect CNC machined or not. Stranger things have happened.
Are you saying you've tried 4 different sets of bases and rings? If you haven't tried different bases and rings that would be my next move. If you have tried different bases and rings I would tear the rifle down and start looking for problems. This is my suggestion if you decide to tear the rifle down. Mark the barrel so you know how it was indexed then tear the rifle down to look for anything obvious if you don't find anything obvious reinstall the barrel with the index mark in a different location and go shoot. If the POI changes you will know it is a barrel problem and can take the necessary steps. Hope this helps. Brian Brown.
I would center the reticles in one of the scopes, then try a set of adjustable bases.
I would try another set of bases AND rings. If that doesn't help, I am sure Jim and Savage will look at it.
LOL I wish. From my master bedroom wall, through dinning room,through the kitchen,through the hall way into the other bedroom wall is 18 yards.Originally Posted by Ramdiesel
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Whew! If it was, I was gonna suggest you might be more at home on the Blaser Shooters Forum! :)
Did you try loosening the base screws, and shifting the bases in the direction you need to go,(if possible), then retightening?
As has been said, the bolt bodies do warp after heat treatreating if all I have heard over the yrs on this forum. If you can determine that a straight line through the centers of the base mounting holes point to the right or left then you have a warped bolt body. 2 solutions; call Savage and ask that they take a look, they may pay shipping, or send it to Fred Moreo at SharpShooterSupply for straigtening.
Stretching a straight edge across the centers of the holes will show if they are on a warped bolt body by pointin ther straight edge away from the cneterline of the bolt body. Simple enough to check bafore going bonkers spending bucks on a new set of scope rings and bases.
El Lobo
just lay a broom handle in your scopebases. it should be perfectly parallel with your barrel
that was a joke by the way
Did you try loosening the base screws, and shifting the bases in the direction you need to go,(if possible), then retightening?
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I just did this very thing. I bet I’ve bought 15 sets of Warne bases and NEVER had this happen before. Sure enough you could loosen the bases and move them around. I pushed the front base and pulled the rear one to me. I now have 43 clicks left adjustment in my weaver V24. It will be at least a week before i go back to the range.
I'm off to the Blaser Shooters Forum. Do they like Savage rifles over there? ;D
Thanks for all the help guys
++++
Any bases that use fillister type screws have this problem. It's not a matter of "IF" they will move, it's just a matter of when.
Good bases use the tapered Weaver style screws that center in the hole when drawn up.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Can you recommend some good ones?
Thanks
I prefer the Picatinny rail to traditional bases. It's stiffer and gives you more flexibility in scope/ ring placement. EGW makes good, reasonably priced rails.
Thanks again Barrel-nut
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