Originally Posted by
kevin1
I’m thinking buying everything from NSS as I heard a lot of good things.
I’m considering swapping the factory barrel on my 308 Savage 10FP that is currently sitting in B&C Medalist A2 stock. My current set-up shoots consistently 0.5 to .75 moa with my hand loads. My goal is to go under a consistent 0.5 moa for a max of shooting distance of 500 yards. I wish I could end up with a 0.25 moa gun (who know, maybe I will), but I know that no barrel can guarantee this kind of accuracy.
Barrel Choice:
I’m hesitating between the Shilen Chrome Moly and the Criterion barrel.
1.What’s the finish on the Shilen Chrome Moly? Will it match the mat black finish of the Savage 10FP? If not, or if it’s a shiny blue finish, I might as well go with Criterion stainless steel barrel (the contrast should be better)
2. I heard the Shilen Chrome Moly is not hand lapped. But the accuracy of both should be very similar. Do you confirm?
3. which contour would fit my set-up, without the need of sanding the barrel channel of the stock?
I believe it would be Small Shank Varmint. Please confirm.
Recoil lug: Which one should I get?
(NSS) Precision Ground Heavy Duty or (NSS) Squared and Trued Barrel Nut. Honestly I can tell the difference. At the same time both seems to be stainless steel. So at the end, this will not match the finish of the rifle.
Tools needed: Which one of these I don’t have to buy
(NSS) Barrel Nut Wrench $25
(NSS) Action Wrench $60
(NSS) Vise Jaw Inserts. Which one do I need? Flat gripping surfaces for $40 or Round gripping surfaces for $48
My thoughts are that the (NSS) Vise Jaw Inserts might not be required (unless you tell me otherwise) as I can always use 2 pieces of wood, covered in blankets.
I will also need to by a vise. I suppose a cheap one will do.
Go-no go gage: I’m thinking just using a factory ammo as a go, and then one of my once fired brass as a no go.
Thanks in advance for all your inputs.
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