Ok, I did some test runs today. Basically what I did was found a long socket that the case fit down inside of snugly but loose enough so the case falls out when tilted. The socket was used to shield the rest of the case from the open flame. I chucked the socket into a drill to spin while heating the exposed area of the brass.

I tried both MAP and butane torches. I like the MAP because it heats really, really quickly. I can hold the case by the rim with my bare hand right after the neck is done like in the pictures. It is a bit hot to the touch but not so hot that it blisters, brass fired from an AR is hotter.

Using the butane the base gets very hot by the time the neck starts to change color because it heats so slowly. It takes over 5 seconds for the brass to change colors with butane. where the MAP gas does the same in 1-2 seconds and is glowing by 3 seconds but the rim is still able to be touched even after getting the neck red.

With these I heated them in bright light and just as the brass started to discolor I removed the heat. Then I tried heating the brass in dim light, removing the heat as the brass started to glow. I could see very little difference in appearance between the two methods.

Here are some pictures of some practice brass:
These are just some practice pieces that were just annealed and nothing else.These won't be loaded for other reasons.
Inside the 3/8" socket before annealing:
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2401.jpg[/img]
After annealing, slightly pulled out of socket:
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2402.jpg[/img]
Pictures of brass after annealing:
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2405.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2407.jpg[/img]
Using the socket as a shield leaves a nice uniform height on all of them and again the rim is no hotter than when fired from an AR.

Here are some 7.62x39 that have been annealed then polished:
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2375.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2388.jpg[/img]

If anyone thinks this might not work please let me know what might need to be done better. I am thinking of making a taller "socket" out of aluminum for the 223. This way it acts as a heatsink and moves the annealed area a little higher up the case.

Thanks for all the responses
Dolomite